Egypt travel guide

Explore Cairo

The capital was the place I was least excited about, and without a doubt the biggest surprise. Spend hours in the Egyptian Museum, see the royal mummies, walk through Islamic and Coptic Cairo and end with a dinner cruise on the Nile.

Read next: The best things to do in Cairo, from royal mummies to medieval bazaars

Visit the Great Pyramids of Giza

No trip to Egypt is complete without the pyramids of Khufu (Cheops), Khafre and Menkaure. See them on a guided half-day tour, and pay extra to crawl inside the Great Pyramid, as I did: probably not one for the claustrophobic.

Read next: Pyramids of Giza: how to visit (and whether to go inside the Great Pyramid)

Ride the overnight sleeper train

Board in Giza in the evening and wake up beside the Nile in the south. I took it both ways; I enjoyed it, but once you’ve done it one way, I’d fly the other.

Read next: Cairo to Aswan sleeper train: what to know before you book

Take a Nile river cruise

Sail between Aswan and Luxor on a cruise ship, or take a traditional felucca ride. I slept on a felucca sailing north from Aswan, and waking up on a remote part of the Nile at sunrise was worth the trip alone.

Read next: Nile river cruise: cruise ship, dahabiya or felucca?

Visit the temples of Abu Simbel

Adding Ramses II’s rock-cut temples felt like a no-brainer. The Great Temple feels a little bit like an ego trip, but my god, it’s stunning. Go by road from Aswan for a very early start, or fly, as I did.

Read next: Abu Simbel temples: is the early start worth it?

See the pharaohs’ tombs in the Valley of the Kings

The burial place of the New Kingdom pharaohs, including Tutankhamun, whose small tomb still holds his mummy. A standard ticket covers three tombs; KV14, Tausert and Setnakht, was my favourite.

Read next: Valley of the Kings: how to pick your three tombs

Visit Luxor Temple

Begun by Amenhotep III and added to by Tutankhamun, Ramses II and Alexander the Great, it has an avenue of sphinxes, an obelisk and towering statues. Go at sunset, when the stone turns gold.

Read next: How to visit Luxor Temple (and why to go at sunset)

Go on a hot air balloon ride in Luxor

There’s only one way to see the West Bank like this: from the air. My sunrise balloon flight over the Colossi of Memnon was one of the highlights of the whole trip, even with a 3am alarm.

Read next: Hot air balloon in Luxor: is it worth the 3am alarm?

Visit Karnak Temple

Egypt’s largest temple complex, built over some 2,000 years for the god Amun-Ra. It. Is. Vast. If you’re going to skip anything in Luxor, Karnak is not it.

Read next: Karnak Temple: the one sight in Luxor you can’t skip

Take a multi-day trip to Aswan

Aswan was a close contender for my favourite spot on the trip. Visit Philae, the Nubian Museum and the Botanical Garden, and see the High Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk.

Read next: Things to do in Aswan: temples, Nubian culture and the Nile

Go snorkelling in the Red Sea

The Red Sea coast is a welcome escape from the inland heat. A snorkelling cruise to Orange Bay on Giftun Island is the perfect way to wrap up your trip.

There are two main ways to see Egypt in a straight line.

Follow the Nile

Cairo > Giza Pyramids > Khan el-Khalili > Grand Egyptian Museum > Luxor > Karnak Temple > Valley of the Kings > Valley of the Queens > Aswan > Nubian Museum > Philae Temple > High Dam > Abu Simbel

See the wonders of Egypt’s coast

Cairo > Hurghada > Orange Bay > Safaga > Qena (for the Temple of Hathor at Dendera)

My 10-day Egypt itinerary follows the river the other way: the sleeper train south to Aswan, then a felucca north towards Luxor.

• The Coloured Canyon: a narrow slot of red, yellow and purple sandstone near Nuweiba in South Sinai, with excellent walking trails.
• The Shali Fortress: the maze-like ruins of a mud-brick town in Siwa Oasis, built from kershef, a mix of salt, rock and clay.
• The City of the Dead: a Cairo neighbourhood where people live among the domed tombs and mausoleums of a vast historic cemetery.

Dishes to try

• Ful medames: Egypt’s staple breakfast of slow-cooked fava beans, with boiled eggs or vegetables.
• Koshari: rice, macaroni, lentils and chickpeas under a spiced tomato sauce and crispy onions. It sounds strange, but it’s worth a try.
• Baklava: a sweet pastry layered with nuts and syrup or honey.
• Falafel: here it’s ta’ameya, made with fava beans, and it’s nothing like the falafel you’ve had at home. THE FALAFEL. Drool.

Drinks to try

• Sugarcane juice (asab): sweet and freshly pressed at juice stalls everywhere.
• Hibiscus tea (karkade): served hot or iced; you’ll see locals drinking it everywhere.
• Mint tea: the classic café drink, best at El Fishawy in Khan el-Khalili.

El Fishawy, Cairo

Khan el-Khalili’s most famous café, serving mint tea, Turkish coffee and shisha in its mirrored alley since the 18th century.

The rooftop at the Kempinski Nile Hotel, Cairo

The bar and restaurant beside the rooftop pool, with the Nile below. The food was bright and flavourful; go at dusk.

Salahaddin, Aswan

One of my favourite dining spots in Egypt, with terraces on the Nile and Egyptian, Nubian and international dishes.

Makani, Aswan

Traditional Egyptian food with a view of the Nile, and a super-friendly owner.

My nine days cost just over £2,500 including flights, or about £1,750 without them; Intrepid’s eight-day tour was £769.25.

• Budget: US$30 to US$50 a day
• Mid-range: US$80 to US$150 a day
• Luxury: US$300 or more a day
• Sleeper train: from about US$110 one way in a shared cabin

My guide to the cost of a trip to Egypt breaks down every cost.

Safety

Egypt is a reasonably safe country. Though I suggest you keep guard in busy centres, this is where petty crimes thrive in most countries. A considerable safety concern is near the borders of Libya and Sudan, where there are terrorism alerts.

Health

Travelling to Egypt is relatively safe, but you can take some precautions to help you stay healthy. Only drink filtered / mineral water, only eat food from trusted sources and pack an emergency first-aid kit.

Tipping

Tipping (baksheesh) is part of everyday life in Egypt. Leave 10 to 15% in restaurants (check whether service is already on the bill), keep small notes for porters, toilet attendants and street food vendors, and give guides and drivers around US$5 to US$10 per person per day.

Tips for travelling

• Apply for your e-visa on the official portal, not a lookalike agency site.
• Bring a card and some cash: the major sites are card-only, but you’ll need small notes for tips, toilets, taxis and boats.
• Nothing is free: camel photos and “gifts” come with a price, and ignore anyone who asks to check your ticket outside a site.
• Read my Egypt travel tips before you go.

How to see the best for free

Tip-based walking tours are a great way to explore the bazaars, street food and churches of Islamic and Coptic Cairo, and wandering Al-Muizz Street or Aswan’s Corniche costs nothing. The Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities also has free virtual tours of tombs, temples and museums.

Packing

There are two crucial things to consider when creating your Egypt packing list: the hot weather and the conservative cultural norms. Pack light, modest and airy clothing: in 40-degree heat, I lived in harem pants, loose tops, maxi dresses and two kimonos. A high SPF sunscreen is a must, and bring a pashmina scarf to cover your head and shoulders at religious sites.

Read next: What to wear in Egypt (plus a practical Egypt packing list)

Travel insurance

Travel insurance is the fail-safe that’ll help any trip meet your expectations. It offers coverage options ranging from medical emergency assistance to theft, cancellations, and third-party liability insurance.

Suggested guidebooks

Invest in an extensive travel guide for Egypt. Some great options include the Moon Egypt Travel Guide and the Lonely Planet Egypt guide, both available in paperback and e-book.

Interesting facts

• The ancient Egyptians were among the first to use a 365-day calendar.
• The Great Pyramid was the tallest man-made structure in the world for more than 3,800 years.
• The pyramids weren’t built by slaves but by paid workers, who were buried in tombs near the plateau.
• The Aswan High Dam created Lake Nasser, one of the largest artificial lakes in the world, stretching about 500 km into Sudan.

Handy phrases

• Hello: salam alaykum (reply: wa alaykum as-salam)
• Thank you: shukran
• No thank you: la shukran
• Yes: aywa
• No: la
• Water: mayya
• How much is this?: bikam da?
• Let’s go: yallah

Time zone

Egypt runs on Eastern European Time (UTC+2). Daylight saving time puts the clocks forward an hour (to UTC+3) from the last Friday of April to the last Thursday of October, so it’s two hours ahead of the UK for most of the year.

Electricity and adapters

Egypt operates on a 220V supply voltage and uses the C and F plug types. Bring along a universal electrical adapter to charge your gadgets without hassle.