Welcome to the mystical realm of ancient Egyptian temples: column-lined halls that have borne witness to millennia of sacred ceremonies. From Karnak and Philae to Abu Simbel and Dendera, these are the magnificent temples you can still see today, with what to look for, tickets and how to get there.

Ancient Egypt still influences our lives today. Thousands of years after the age of the pharaohs ended, an astonishing number of its temples remain to visit and explore.

Historians usually date the start of ancient Egyptian history to the unification of the country around 3100 BC, and the age of the pharaohs ran until Alexander the Great arrived in 332 BC. Even then, the Greek-speaking Ptolemies and the Roman emperors who followed carried on building temples in the old style for centuries. For around 3,000 years, it was one of the most advanced civilisations on the face of the Earth.

Incredibly, many of the temples and tombs that have taught us so much about this long-distant period remain, and they’re an essential part of any visit to Egypt, whether you’re a history buff (I certainly am!) or simply love to see the incredible.

Ready to delve into times long past and seek out the majesty of the pharaohs? Let’s get our geek on and jump right in!

Best ancient Egyptian temples you can still see today

Karnak Temple, Luxor

Massive carved sandstone columns of the Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak Temple in Luxor, with sunlight on the stone
The giant columns of the Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak

If you’re visiting a site that took almost 2,000 years to build, you’d want to be wowed, wouldn’t you? Thankfully, Karnak Temple, on the northern edge of Luxor, does not disappoint!

It’s kind of tough to get your head around the scale of the place. It. Is. Vast. Around thirty (yes, thirty) pharaohs added to it, and to put it bluntly, if you’re going to skip anything on your trip, Karnak is not it.

Made up of sanctuaries, pylons, obelisks and enormously imposing stone columns, Karnak was mainly dedicated to the Theban Triad: Amun, his wife Mut and their son Khonsu. It grew into the largest religious complex of the New Kingdom, and the Precinct of Amun-Ra, the part you visit on the standard ticket, covers around 25 hectares on its own (don’t worry, it’s big enough).

An avenue of ram-headed sphinxes leads to the first pylon, and from there you walk through the Great Court into the awe-inspiring Great Hypostyle Hall, a forest of 134 gargantuan columns built by Seti I and Ramses II and covered in elaborate carvings. Further in, look out for the obelisks of Thutmose I and Hatshepsut, and the Sacred Lake.

Take at least a few hours to explore, but also wear a hat and bring plenty of water: there’s very little shade.

Ticket: 600 EGP; open daily from 6am to 5pm.

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Karnak is on the East Bank, about 3 km north of the city centre, so it’s an easy taxi or calèche ride, or you can walk the restored Avenue of Sphinxes from Luxor Temple. If you’d like a guide, this guided tour of the East or West Bank with lunch has an East Bank option that covers Karnak and Luxor Temple in a day. In the evening, Karnak also hosts a sound and light show by the Sacred Lake.

Philae Temple, Aswan

View from a motorboat on the water towards Agilkia Island and Philae Temple near Aswan under a blue sky
My first glimpse of Philae from the motorboat

Philae Temple is a stunning site, even by the incredibly high standards of ancient Egyptian temples, and it’s one of my own personal favourites. Rising from the water on its island, it’s a jaw-dropping temple complex that will blow your mind (or at least swallow up a decent portion of your camera’s memory card).

The only way to reach it is by boat, and I promise that the first glimpse of Philae, its golden columns surrounded by the striking blue of water and sky, will be one to remember.

With massive towering walls adorned with hieroglyphs, the Temple of Isis was begun by the Ptolemies in the 3rd century BC, on a sacred island where pharaohs had already built shrines, so it looks quite different to the older temples further north. It was also one of the last places in Egypt where the old gods were worshipped: the last known inscription in hieroglyphs was carved here in AD 394, and the temple wasn’t closed until the 6th century AD. The name is often said to mean “the end” in Greek, but it’s actually a Greek version of the island’s ancient Egyptian name.

Dedicated to the cult of Isis, the columns of its hypostyle hall remain in remarkable condition, with traces of their original paint. The carved musical scenes in the small Temple of Hathor, with the god Bes playing instruments, retain their ancient charm, and the graceful Kiosk of Trajan stands on the water’s edge.

What you see today isn’t on its original island. After the first Aswan Dam left Philae flooded for much of each year, the High Dam would have drowned it for good, so in a UNESCO-led rescue between 1972 and 1980, the whole complex was taken apart block by block and rebuilt on higher ground on nearby Agilkia Island.

Julianna sitting in a stone window opening at Philae Temple in Aswan, with water and rocks beyond
Me taking a break in a window at Philae, with the Nile beyond

Ticket: 550 EGP; open daily from 7am.

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Take a taxi from Aswan to the Marina at Shellal, about 12 km south of the centre, buy your ticket and take a motorboat across to Agilkia Island (about 10 minutes). Alternatively, take this private guided tour to Philae Temple and learn more about its incredible history.

Abu Simbel

Julianna standing below the colossal seated statues of Ramses II on the facade of the Great Temple at Abu Simbel
Me in front of the Great Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel

Another of the must-visit sites when you’re in Aswan is a trip to Abu Simbel, which is, if anything, an even more incredible testament to ancient Egyptian engineering and architectural design than Philae. Adding it to my trip felt like a no-brainer.

The site contains two colossal rock temples, carved out of a sandstone cliff during the reign of Ramses II, or Ramses the Great, in the 13th century BC. The Great Temple honours Ramses himself, and the smaller temple honours his beloved queen, Nefertari. The whole complex took about 20 years to complete.

Sure, the Great Temple feels a little bit like an ego-trip. Four colossal statues of the king, each about 20 metres high, guard the entrance, and there are so many carvings of his exploits inside that it’s impossible to keep track of them. But my god, it’s stunning. It’s dedicated to the gods Amun, Ra-Horakhty and Ptah, and to Ramses as a god, and it’s considered the finest of the temples commissioned during his reign.

The temple was built so that twice a year, around 22 February and 22 October, the rising sun shines along its full length and lights up the statues in the sanctuary. Only Ptah, a god linked with the underworld, stays in the shadows.

A square pillar topped with the carved face of Hathor inside the Temple of Hathor and Nefertari, Abu Simbel
A pillar carved with the face of the goddess Hathor in Nefertari’s temple

Don’t forget to spend some time in the much smaller Temple of Hathor and Nefertari. It’s still emblazoned with Ramses’ face outside, but inside it’s distinctly different: instead of Ramses’ glories in battle, it shows religious ceremonies and the goddess Hathor, to whom it’s dedicated alongside Nefertari.

Like Philae, both temples were moved to save them from Lake Nasser. Between 1964 and 1968, they were cut into more than 1,000 blocks and rebuilt about 65 metres higher up, under an artificial hill, in one of the great engineering feats of the 20th century.

Ticket: about 800 EGP, more on the two sun festival days; open daily from 6am to 5pm.

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Abu Simbel is about 280 km south of Aswan, close to the Sudanese border. A day trip involves either a horrendously early start or a kind of early start, depending on whether you go by road (about three and a half hours each way, leaving Aswan at around 4am) or fly (about 45 minutes). This shared tour with a guide and entrance fees takes care of the logistics. You can also stay overnight in Abu Simbel village and catch the evening sound and light show.

Luxor Temple

The first pylon of Luxor Temple with two seated statues of Ramses II at the entrance, Luxor
The first pylon of Luxor Temple, guarded by seated statues of Ramses II

For anyone wanting to know how ancient Egypt became one of the ancient world’s greatest nations, visiting Luxor Temple is a must.

The temple is arguably one of the most extraordinary time capsules in the country, sitting in the heart of downtown Luxor yet as far removed from the modern city as you could imagine. It was dedicated to Amun and to the divine power of kingship, and it was where the great Opet Festival ended each year, when the statues of the gods were carried here from Karnak.

Amenhotep III built most of it around 1400 BC, Tutankhamun decorated its grand colonnade, and Ramses II added the great pylon, a courtyard and a pair of obelisks (one of them now stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris). Alexander the Great added a shrine, the Romans turned part of it into a military chapel, and the Mosque of Abu Haggag still stands on top of it.

The Avenue of Sphinxes and the statues of Ramses II lead the way to the temple gates, beyond which are the courtyards of Ramses II and Amenhotep III.

Unlike most of the big sites, it stays open after dark, when the temple is floodlit. If you only have time for one visit, I’d go at sunset.

Ticket: 500 EGP; open daily from 6am, with last entry at 7pm.

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Luxor Temple is on the Corniche in downtown Luxor, meaning it’s an easy walk if you’re already in town. This Karnak and Luxor Temple tour with lunch is a good way to take in the history of both temples with a guide.

Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, Luxor

The long ramp up to the colonnaded terraces of Hatshepsut's mortuary temple below the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, Luxor
The ramp up to the terraces of Hatshepsut’s temple, below the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari

Staying in Luxor, the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut was built for one of Egypt’s more curious rulers: one of the few women to rule in her own right. Hatshepsut knew the perils of being a female leader, so she billed herself as a king and was often portrayed as male, complete with a pharaonic beard.

Her temple, Djeser-Djeseru (“holy of holies”), was built between the 7th and 20th years of her reign, probably to designs by her steward Senenmut. Created to tell her life story, amplify her accomplishments and be a grand edifice, it’s fair to say it achieved its mission.

This is one of the most wondrous sights in the country, with the colossal temple set against the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari on the West Bank. Its three terraces are linked by long ramps, and the colonnades are carved with scenes from her reign, including a famous trading expedition to the land of Punt. I went into the painted chapels on the upper terrace on my visit, and they’re worth seeking out.

After her death, her successor Thutmose III had many of her images and names chiselled out. Archaeologists have been excavating and restoring the temple since the 1890s, and a Polish and Egyptian mission has been rebuilding it since 1961, so much of what you see has been carefully pieced back together. The sprawling colonnaded terraces have a remarkably contemporary feel, and their elegant symmetry provides a stark contrast to the enormous cliff face towering above them.

Ticket: 440 EGP; open daily from 6am to 5pm (4pm in winter).

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If you’re travelling independently, the easiest way to get to the temple is by taxi. The route takes you along the banks of the Nile and across the Luxor Bridge to the West Bank. It’s close to the Valley of the Kings, so most people combine the two, as I did. Otherwise, this day tour of the Valley of the Kings and the temple adds expert guidance.

Temple of Horus, Edfu

A granite statue of the falcon god Horus before the carved walls of the temple at Edfu
A granite statue of the falcon god Horus at the Temple of Edfu

The Temple of Horus at Edfu is the best-preserved temple in Egypt and, after Karnak, one of the largest. Built by the Ptolemies between 237 and 57 BC, it lay buried up to its roof in sand and river silt, with houses built on top, until the French archaeologist Auguste Mariette began clearing it in the 1860s. That’s why so much of it survives intact, from the 36-metre pylon to the dark inner sanctuary.

Horus is one of ancient Egypt’s most recognisable and important gods, and two granite statues of the falcon-headed deity stand guard at the entrance and in the courtyard.

This magnificent temple’s walls are covered in carvings, including the story of Horus’s battle with his rival Seth, and they’re a valuable historical source on religion and ritual in the Ptolemaic period.

Ticket: 550 EGP.

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Edfu is on the West Bank of the Nile, roughly halfway between Aswan and Luxor, about 110 km from each, and most Nile cruises stop here. A good option is this Edfu and Kom Ombo day tour, which starts in Aswan and drops you in Luxor at the end of the day. Alternatively, it’s an easy stop by road or train between the two cities.

Temple of Kom Ombo

Columns and walls of the ruined double temple of Sobek and Horus at Kom Ombo under a blue sky
The ruins of the double temple at Kom Ombo

Kom Ombo is one of ancient Egypt’s more unusual temples, built mainly during the Ptolemaic period, from the 2nd century BC.

It owes its uniqueness to its dedication to two gods, the crocodile-headed Sobek and the falcon-headed Horus the Elder (Haroeris).

This double dedication was entirely deliberate, with two sets of courts, halls and sanctuaries side by side, one for each god, running in parallel along the same axis.

While Kom Ombo is less complete than other temples, it has been partly reconstructed and has some well-preserved and beautifully carved columns and reliefs, including a set of what look like surgical instruments. Don’t miss the Crocodile Museum next door, with its mummified crocodiles, which were sacred to Sobek.

Ticket: 450 EGP, including the Crocodile Museum.

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Kom Ombo is on the East Bank, about 45 km north of Aswan, and it’s a stop on almost every Nile cruise. You can also take the train on the Aswan to Luxor line to Kom Ombo station and a short taxi ride, or a taxi from Aswan. Alternatively, the Edfu and Kom Ombo day tour above is well worthwhile, or from Luxor, try this private tour of Edfu, Kom Ombo and Aswan.

Temple of Seti I, Abydos

Carved papyrus columns and painted reliefs inside the hall of the Temple of Seti I at Abydos
Inside the Temple of Seti I at Abydos

Abydos is one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. It was the burial place of some of the earliest kings, and it became a pilgrimage site for worshippers of the god Osiris, whose head was said to be buried here.

Its star is the Temple of Seti I. It’s unusually L-shaped, built chiefly of fine white limestone, and has seven chapels side by side, for six gods and the deified king. Seti I died before it was finished, and his son, Ramses II, completed it.

Far from being a ruin, it has some of the finest and best-preserved reliefs in Egypt, many still painted. Look out for the Abydos King List, a carved roll call of 76 earlier kings that has helped historians piece together the order of the pharaohs. Behind the temple lies the Osireion, a mysterious sunken building often flooded with groundwater.

Ticket: 260 EGP.

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Abydos is about 160 km north of Luxor, around three hours by road, so it’s usually visited on a long day trip, often combined with Dendera. You can also take the train from Luxor to al-Balyana and a taxi from there. Alternatively, take this private day tour to Abydos and Dendera from Luxor for the full guided experience.

Temple of Hathor, Dendera

Huge columns topped with the face of Hathor under a painted ceiling in the temple at Dendera
The Hathor-headed columns of the hypostyle hall at Dendera

One of Egypt’s finest religious temples, the Temple of Hathor at Dendera stands on the West Bank of the Nile, opposite the city of Qena. Dedicated to the goddess of love, music and joy, it’s one of the best preserved in the country, and the site was sacred for thousands of years before the temple you see today was built.

The present temple was begun under Ptolemy XII in 54 BC and finished under the Roman emperors. On its rear wall, look for a rare carving of Cleopatra VII, the famous Cleopatra, with her son by Julius Caesar, Caesarion.

The great hall is a sight to behold, with 24 enormous columns crowned with the face of Hathor. The walls are covered in scenes of offerings, some made by Roman emperors in pharaoh’s dress, and the ceiling is full of astronomical decorations, cleaned in recent years to reveal their original blues and golds. Up on the roof, a chapel holds a copy of the Dendera Zodiac (the original is in the Louvre).

Ticket: 300 EGP.

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Dendera is about 60 km north of Luxor, around an hour and a half by road, and some Nile cruises from Luxor sail north to it. If you want to travel independently, take a taxi from Luxor or Qena, or join this day trip to Dendera and Abydos with a guide.

Medinet Habu, Luxor

Osiride statues of Ramses III against carved pillars in a sunlit courtyard of Medinet Habu temple, Luxor
Osiride statues of Ramses III lining a courtyard at Medinet Habu

Known in ancient times as Djeme, Medinet Habu (sometimes written Medinat Habu) was linked in legend with the place where Amun first appeared. Hatshepsut and Thutmose III built a small temple to Amun here before Ramses III built his vast mortuary temple next door, in the 12th century BC.

That mortuary temple is the site’s most prominent monument, and much of it remains today, behind a fortified gateway, with some original paintwork and superbly preserved carvings. Its outer walls show Ramses III’s battles against the Sea Peoples, among the most famous war scenes in Egyptian art.

One of Luxor’s best-kept secrets, it’s far quieter than Karnak, and a magnificently preserved monument to the power of the pharaohs.

Ticket: 220 EGP.

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Medinet Habu is on the West Bank, a short drive from the Colossi of Memnon and the Valley of the Queens. This private tour of Medinet Habu, Deir el-Medina and the Valley of the Queens takes in all three from Luxor. Some Nile cruises also stop at the temple.

Kalabsha Temple, Aswan

The small columned Kiosk of Qertassi on rocks beside Lake Nasser at the Kalabsha temple site, Aswan
The Kiosk of Qertassi beside Kalabsha Temple, on the shore of Lake Nasser

Sited within view of the Aswan High Dam, on an island on the shore of Lake Nasser, Kalabsha Temple is one of the largest temples in Nubia, and it sees only a fraction of Philae’s visitors.

Built at the end of the Ptolemaic period and completed under the Roman emperor Augustus, the temple was dedicated to the Nubian god Mandulis. Like Philae and Abu Simbel, it was rescued from the rising lake: in the early 1960s, it was dismantled into more than 13,000 blocks and rebuilt here, well north of its original site.

The imposing pylon of the temple is connected to the main complex by a large wall, and there are beautiful views of the lake and the dam. Other rescued monuments share the site, including the elegant Kiosk of Qertassi and the rock-cut temple of Beit el-Wali.

The temple walls contain imagery that blends ancient Egyptian and Nubian traditions with the Greek and Roman world, a wonderful must-visit for anyone with classical interests.

Ticket: 200 EGP.

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Kalabsha is just south of the High Dam, about 20 km from central Aswan. Take a taxi, then a short boat ride across to the temple, or join this private tour of the temple and the Nubian Museum, which pairs it with the Nubian Museum in Aswan.

Practical tips for visiting the temples

  • Go early. The big sites open at 6am, and the first couple of hours are the coolest and quietest. There were points in Luxor and Aswan where I was so hot I didn’t know what to do with myself, so wear a hat, carry plenty of water and plan a break in the middle of the day.
  • Bring a bank card. Ticket offices at the major sites now take cards, and several are card-only, so don’t rely on cash for your tickets. Keep some small notes for toilets and tips. In Luxor, the Luxor Pass covers most of the East and West Bank sites if you’re staying a few days.
  • Photography. Taking photos on your phone is free at most sites, and personal cameras are generally allowed too. Flash isn’t, and tripods and professional equipment need a permit.
  • Get a guide for the big ones. The best way to enjoy the rich history of the temples is with a guide, at least for the big sites. I’m a geek, and would my visits to Karnak, Philae and Abu Simbel have been the same without my guide? Not at all.
  • Dress modestly and be respectful. These are sites of tremendous cultural, religious and historic importance. Wear loose, comfortable clothing that covers your shoulders and knees and sensible shoes, follow instructions about where you can and cannot walk, and don’t touch the paintwork.

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