Things to do in Balboa Park, the San Diego park whose palaces were never meant to last
A century ago, San Diego threw up a city of Spanish palaces for a two-year fair and then simply kept them. Today they hold 17…
A century ago, San Diego threw up a city of Spanish palaces for a two-year fair and then simply kept them. Today they hold 17…
Seventeen museums in one park, sea lions snoozing below a village of boutiques, a wooden rollercoaster on the sand and a lighthouse on the point…
San Diego does daytime beautifully: sunshine, surf and a park bigger than Central Park. But stick around once the sun drops into the Pacific and…
Two hours in any direction from a Palm Springs sun lounger, you can watch sunrise over a national park, roar out of a T. rex’s…
Start in Hollywood, wake at 4am for a sunrise that turns a salt pan pink, spend your nights under skies dark enough to show the…
Salt flats below sea level, the biggest tree on the planet, a volcano that last erupted just over a century ago and islands you can…
Two concrete giants have been pulling drivers off the I-10 for half a century, and one of them hides a staircase that leads up to…
Behind a modest gate on the south side of Palm Springs, one family has spent almost 90 years packing more than 3,000 kinds of desert…
Palm Springs has one of the finest collections of mid-century modern buildings anywhere, yet most of its famous houses are private homes you can only…
Palm Springs has pools on every corner, so is a spa half an hour down the valley worth the drive? Here’s my review of Agua…
Wildflowers, snow on the mountains, 100°F afternoons and nights dark enough to show the Milky Way: Joshua Tree changes completely from one season to the…
Hollywood’s stars have been slipping out to Palm Springs for the weekend since the 1930s, and the city still knows how to show you a…
Hidden Valley is a pocket of desert sealed in by walls of granite, reached through a narrow gap in the rocks and once used by…
There are plenty of incredible hikes in Joshua Tree, but few end with a rock looking back at you. Here’s where to park for Skull…
Arch Rock is a 30ft granite arch hidden in a maze of boulders on the eastern side of Joshua Tree National Park, at the end…
Joshua Tree National Park spreads across two deserts and close to 800,000 acres, with its best sights miles apart on empty desert roads. This three-day…
The trees here aren’t really trees, the fluffiest-looking cactus in the desert will happily hitch a ride on your leg, and the finest view in…
Palm Springs squeezes palm-filled canyons, a cactus garden planted in 1938, a 26-foot Marilyn Monroe and some of the finest mid-century homes in America into…
Badwater Basin is the great white salt pan on the floor of Death Valley, and the lowest point in North America. Here’s how the salt…
A few minutes’ walk from the car park above Stovepipe Wells, the walls of Mosaic Canyon close in to narrows of white and grey marble,…
Golden Canyon starts at a car park on Badwater Road and, within minutes, closes in around you with walls of yellow and cream rock laid…
Death Valley National Park covers more than three million acres, and its big sights can sit an hour or more apart. So which corner gets…
Strap on your hiking boots and prepare for an adventure. These trails squeeze through polished marble narrows, cross a salt flat far below sea level…
The lowest, hottest and driest national park in the US is also one of the strangest places I’ve ever been. Where’s the view worth a…
Heard of the Death Valley sand dunes? The most famous of them sit right beside the main road through the park, and you can be…
Get ready to see the night sky as it looked before anyone switched on a light bulb. Where should you set up your chair? Which…
Death Valley is one of the hottest, driest places on Earth, and for an hour either side of sunrise and sunset it becomes somewhere else…
California has more than 800 miles of coastline and hundreds of public beaches, so which ones are actually worth the drive? There’s a beach made…
Los Angeles, it’s ON. Where can you walk through a tunnel made of books? Which museum keeps its visitors guessing what’s real? And where do…
Why is the Golden Gate Bridge orange rather than gold? Which prison island still lets you walk its cellblocks? And where in the city does…
From the Hollywood Sign and the Walk of Fame to the Getty, the Broad and a Gothic bridge most visitors never find, these are the…
Giant boulders, a hidden arch, a rock shaped like a skull and palm oases tucked into desert canyons: these are the best hikes in Joshua…
Short films from the places in my guides, so you can see what a destination really looks and feels like before you go.
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