Best time to visit Iceland: long summer light, autumn aurora or winter snow?

Long light and nesting terns in May, the aurora and empty viewpoints in September, or four hours of daylight and steaming lagoons in December? I’ve been in all three. This is the best time to visit Iceland for what you want to see, season by season, with a five-step way to choose.

Iceland: the land of ice and fire, Viking folklore, pristine scenery and let’s not forget the Northern Lights.

Are you planning a trip? You should be.

I’ve visited Iceland a number of times, and to be frank, it’s always incredible. I wanted to go for-e-ver (no joke, it was on the first bucket list I made when I was seven. Yes, I was a pretentious child. And no, nothing has changed since) and now I just can’t stop going back.

Better still for this guide, I’ve been in three very different seasons. I first went in early May, when the evenings barely got dark and there was still snow on the peaks. I went back around the September equinox for the Northern Lights and a long self-drive day along the south coast. Then I spent a few days in Reykjavik in early December, when the sun set mid-afternoon and the best place to be was in a steaming lagoon. Each trip felt like a different country.

This spectacular country draws visitors to its otherworldly landscapes year round. If you are considering booking a ticket, just do it. You won’t regret it.

Sounds great, right? But you want to know which month to book. This guide has everything you need: what each season is really like, the best months for the aurora, whales, puffins, ice caves and hiking, and five questions to help you decide.

When’s the best time to visit Iceland? The short answer

The best time of year to travel to Iceland is the shoulder season, in May and September.

May and September offer lower prices and fewer crowds, but without the harsh weather and short days of winter. Most of the museums and attractions that close or cut their hours over the winter are open, so you’re less restricted when it comes to visiting them too.

Many people worry about whether Iceland is expensive. The answer is yes, but travelling in the shoulder season helps to keep the cost down, especially on car hire and hotels.

The weather can still be a bit breezy and it can snow in the interior. Mountain access is more limited than in high summer, and the highland roads are closed in May. However, when you weigh this against the lower number of visitors and cheaper prices, I think it’s worth the (small) sacrifice.

If you only want the headlines:

• Best all-round months: May and September.
• Best for the Northern Lights: September to early April, with the equinox months (September and March) especially good.
• Best for long days, puffins and the highlands: June to August, which is also the busiest and most expensive time.
• Best for ice caves: November to March. Natural ice caves in Vatnajökull are closed from May to September.
• Cheapest and quietest: November to February, if you can live with short days.
• Best for a Ring Road trip: May to September.

May or September? How the two shoulder months compare

If May and September are the best times of year to go, there are still a few distinct differences between them. I’ve been in both, and here’s what to weigh up when you’re choosing.

Want long days? Go in May

You will hear a lot about the midnight sun in high summer, but May already gives you a lot of daylight. In Reykjavik the sun rises at about 5am and sets just before 10pm at the start of the month, and by the end of May you get around 20 hours between sunrise and sunset.

I’m figuring that even the very best of you guys need to sleep, so this is plenty of time to get out and see the bigger attractions (such as those in the Golden Circle, Reynisfjara or Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon) early in the morning or later in the evening, when there don’t tend to be any crowds.

That’s how my May trip felt. Over a few days based at Hotel Rangá, I did the Golden Circle at Þingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss, visited a farm with an original turf house, drank a bloody mary made with freshly squeezed tomato juice at the Friðheimar greenhouse, tasted my way through Ölvisholt’s beers and bumped across the black sands to Landeyjafjara and into Þórsmörk in a super jeep. The landscape was still in its late-winter colours, all straw-coloured grass and snowy peaks, and the light lasted long enough that nothing ever felt rushed. You can read more about those days in my guide to Iceland’s hidden gems.

May is also one of the best times for a road trip, thanks to a combination of long daylight hours and clearer roads.

In September the days are shorter: Reykjavik goes from about 14 and a half hours of daylight at the start of the month to around 11 and a half by the end.

Want the Northern Lights? Go in September

May’s long daylight hours mean that the Northern Lights are a no-no. The sky never really gets dark enough to see the aurora borealis in action, and that was the one thing my May trip was missing.

If you want to time your visit for the best time to see the Northern Lights in Iceland, but want to avoid the cold and sometimes tough conditions of winter, go in September.

It’s not entirely clear why, but the aurora is often more active around the spring and autumn equinoxes. That’s exactly why I went back in late September, and it paid off: I saw the lights two nights in a row from Hotel Rangá. Plus you don’t have to deal with the freezing temperatures of the winter months. My Hotel Rangá review has the full story of those two nights, wake-up call and all.

Want to maximise your chances? Stay somewhere dark, away from the towns, such as one of the Northern Lights hotels in Iceland.

Want to spot seabirds? Go in May

Late May is a great time to see birdlife, but the migrants start to arrive earlier in the month, so your chances of bird-spotting are pretty high throughout.

During my visit in early May, many of the migratory birds had already started to arrive. Seabirds nesting in rugged cliffs made for some great spotting opportunities.

I even had a chance to see Arctic terns. Did you know they migrate from the Antarctic to the Arctic and back again every year? It’s the longest migration of any bird, with a round trip that can top 70,000 kilometres.

Puffins come ashore to nest from around May until mid-August, so plump for May over September if seeing them matters to you. In September most have already gone back out to sea.

Want quieter sights and remote roads? Go in September

Crowds at the big attractions are thinner in both May and September, but September has two advantages.

First, the highlands. Iceland’s mountain F-roads open in stages from early June to mid-July and close again in September, so a trip in early September can still reach places that are snowed in during May. If you are planning on travelling to remote destinations, particularly those in the hills and mountains, you’re better off going in September, and earlier in the month is safer than later.

Second, the summer crowds have gone home. On my September trip I hired a car and drove from Rangá all the way to Jökulsárlón and back in a day, stopping at Skógafoss, Reynisfjara and Svartifoss on the way. At the lagoon, a few minutes’ walk from the car park was all it took to have the icebergs almost to myself. On my last morning, a Sunday, I had Urriðafoss almost to myself too. The weather was kind to me: sun and rainbows at Gullfoss, autumn colours in Skaftafell. Don’t count on that, but do pack for it.

Want to see whales? Go in May or September

Both months work for whale watching, though summer has the best odds overall. Tours from Reykjavik’s Old Harbour head out into Faxaflói Bay, where minke whales are seen all year and humpbacks are common from spring to autumn.

Without a doubt, though, the whale-watching capital of the country is Húsavík in the north, where the Will Ferrell and Rachel McAdams film Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga was partly filmed. Humpbacks are the stars from spring into autumn, and blue whales sometimes join them in Skjálfandi Bay from mid-June to mid-July. There’s more on the best months for each species further down.

Want to ride an Icelandic horse? Either month works

Iceland is famous for its cute, stocky and rather small horses (warning: don’t talk about their size to their face, it’s a touchy subject. Oh and for heaven’s sake, don’t you dare call them ponies). I saw them grazing in the fields on my May trip.

Exploring the country on horseback is the adventure of a lifetime, and you can arrange anything from a two-hour ride to a multi-day trek. May and September are both good times for longer treks, as the weather is cool enough to make long rides a pleasant experience.

Shorter rides run all year. Several farms close to Reykjavik take riders out across the lava fields even in winter, such as this Red Lava horse riding tour from the city.

The best time to travel to Iceland by season and activity

May and September are the best months overall, but if you want to focus on a particular season or activity, these sections will help.

Winter: short days, long nights and Reykjavik at its cosiest

I bet when you tell your friends and family you’re planning a winter trip to Iceland, a few puzzled looks will await you. I promise I’ll keep the phrase “Iceland is magical” to a minimum. At least, I’ll try.

I’m not going to dress this up. Winter can be cold. Like, losing extremities cold. Reykjavik itself hovers around freezing for much of the winter, but the wind chill bites, and inland temperatures can drop far lower.

But it can also be a magical time to visit, with the low sun casting a soft light that’s perfect for photography and plenty of darkness to up the chances of seeing the Northern Lights.

The best winter months are November and February. Around the shortest day in December, Reykjavik gets a rather measly four hours of daylight. Compare this to eight hours at the beginning of November and ten at the end of February and you get my point.

The lack of daylight can be a blessing or a curse, depending on what you are after. For aurora hunters, the long nights mean you can see the Northern Lights as early as 5pm. For anyone looking to spend time outdoors or photograph the landscapes, it can be a real challenge to plan around the short days. Still, the sight of snow-covered lava fields punctuated by volcanoes, glaciers and hot springs is impressive enough that you might not care.

Road closures on smaller roads can also be a problem if you’re planning on reaching more remote places, and even the Ring Road can close in storms. Check road.is and safetravel.is every morning before you set off.

What a December trip is really like

My December trip was a city break: a few days in Reykjavik in early December, with fresh snow on the ground and the Christmas lights up. The short days take some getting used to. The sun didn’t rise until after 11am and by half past two it was already sinking over the city, so the trick is to plan your days around the light rather than fight it.

That makes winter perfect for the things that are better in the dark. I worked through the Sky Ritual at Sky Lagoon, from the cold plunge (I lasted about ten seconds) to a steam room so dense I had to feel my way to a seat, then finished back in the warm water, watching the sun set and the sky darken over the sea. I also took a food tour around the city, starting with Arctic char dressed with yuzu and elderflower, and flew over the whole country without leaving Reykjavik at FlyOver Iceland.

If you want the countryside in winter, base yourself somewhere dark rather than in the city. I stayed at Hotel Rangá on both of my earlier trips and would very much recommend it.

Chase the Northern Lights

I’m rarely at a loss for words, but if there’s one thing that few words could ever do justice, it would be the Northern Lights. The long nights make winter prime time for seeing them, as long as the skies are clear.

You can see the aurora almost anywhere in the country away from city lights, including on the Seltjarnarnes peninsula at the edge of Reykjavik during a strong display. If you don’t have a car, a tour takes the guesswork out of finding clear skies: this Northern Lights bus tour with hot cocoa leaves from Reykjavik. There’s more on timing in the Northern Lights section below.

Warm up in a geothermal lagoon

Sinking into hot water while the air around you is below freezing is one of the best things to do in winter. Sky Lagoon, on the Kársnes peninsula a short drive from central Reykjavik, opened in April 2021 and has an infinity edge looking out over the sea. Near the Golden Circle, the Secret Lagoon at Flúðir is one of the oldest pools in the country, and if you’re heading north, the Mývatn Nature Baths and GeoSea in Húsavík are worth the detour.

The Blue Lagoon is the most famous of them all, but check before you book: the section on hot springs below explains why.

Do the Golden Circle in the snow

The Golden Circle works in every season and is one of the easiest day trips from Reykjavik in winter. The loop takes in Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where the North American and Eurasian plates pull apart (and a Game of Thrones filming location), the Geysir geothermal area, where Strokkur erupts every few minutes, and the two-tiered Gullfoss waterfall.

In winter, paths around Gullfoss can be icy and the lower path is sometimes closed, so wear boots with grip. If you’d rather not drive in snow, this full-day Golden Circle tour from Reykjavik fits into any itinerary. My Golden Circle guide has the full route.

Catch Christmas in Reykjavik

Visit in December and you’ll catch Reykjavik dressed up for Christmas. The city centre is strung with lights, a giant illuminated Yule Cat sits in Lækjartorg square, and the Christmas tree in Austurvöllur is still known as the Oslo tree, after the decades when it was a gift from Norway.

The 13 Yule Lads, the mischievous trolls of Icelandic folklore, arrive one by one from 12 December. Þorláksmessa on 23 December is a night of last-minute shopping and traditional skate, New Year’s Eve brings bonfires and one of the biggest firework displays you’ll ever see, and the season ends on 6 January with more bonfires. If you’re heading north, the Yule Lads also have a home at Dimmuborgir near Lake Mývatn.

Fly over the country without leaving Reykjavik

How does a bird’s-eye view of the whole country sound on a dark afternoon? Pretty enticing, am I right? FlyOver Iceland, in the Grandi harbour district, is a flight-ride simulation: you hang in seats in front of a huge spherical screen while it swoops you over glaciers, volcanoes and fjords, with wind and mist to match.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but seeing places I’d already stood in, like Jökulsárlón and Reynisfjara, from the air gave them a whole new sense of scale, and it took me to far more places I’ve still never been. It’s a good one for a short winter day. There’s more in my guide to things to do in Reykjavik.

Eat like a local on a dark evening

Winter is the season for Icelandic comfort food. Lamb soup, rye bread baked in the ground near hot springs, and plenty of fish all come into their own when it’s dark at 4pm. Visit between late January and late February and you’ll coincide with Þorrablót, the midwinter feast of the old month of Þorri, when restaurants serve traditional dishes such as hákarl (fermented shark). Rumour has it that if you eat it and keep it down, you’re a true Viking.

A food tour is a good way to try a lot in one go, and the queue at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, the hot dog stand by the harbour that has been going since 1937, moves quickly even on a winter night.

Spend a dark afternoon in a museum

Reykjavik is the country’s cultural heart, which makes it a good base when the days are short. The National Museum of Iceland tells the story of the country from settlement onwards, and the Árbær Open Air Museum shows how Reykjavik used to look. Perlan, on its hill above the city, has a man-made ice cave, a planetarium show about the Northern Lights and a viewing deck: this Perlan Wonders of Iceland ticket covers the exhibitions. Opening hours are shorter in winter, so check before you go.

The towering Hallgrímskirkja church, 74.5 metres tall, has been one of the most recognisable Icelandic landmarks since it was completed in 1986, and the lift to the top is open year-round.

Time your trip for a winter festival

A few events are worth planning around. Iceland Airwaves fills Reykjavik’s venues with new music in early November. Þorrablót feasts run through late January and February. The Winter Lights Festival lights up the city with art installations, late museum openings and free events over a weekend in early February, and the swimming pools join in after dark.

Ice caves and glaciers: November to March

The natural ice caves that form under Vatnajökull are a winter-only trip. The season starts in October, with November to March the most reliable months, and the caves in Vatnajökull National Park are closed to tours from May to September. They are rebuilt by meltwater every year, so the caves you see change from one winter to the next. After a fatal collapse at Breiðamerkurjökull in August 2024, the rules were tightened: go only with a licensed glacier guide, who will provide the helmets and crampons. This Skaftafell ice cave tour and glacier hike combines the two.

Two options run all year. The ice cave in Kötlujökull, an outlet of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier near Vík (usually sold as the Katla ice cave), is visited on guided tours in every season, and Into the Glacier on Langjökull is a man-made tunnel that you can visit year-round.

Glacier hikes also run all year, but they are only safe with a guide and crampons, whatever the season.

Skiing: February and March

Iceland’s ski season runs roughly from December to April, snow permitting. Hlíðarfjall above Akureyri is the main resort, and Bláfjöll is the closest to Reykjavik. You’re better off going in February and March, as the daylight hours are longer and the snow is usually better too.

Summer: midnight sun and the highlands

Summer is the peak season, no doubt about it. Unless you are heading off the beaten track, expect crowds and high prices across the island.

Thanks to its northerly position, late June gives you around 21 hours of daylight in Reykjavik, and it never gets properly dark. It’s not quite the true midnight sun of the Arctic Circle proper (only the island of Grímsey, off the north coast, actually crosses the Arctic Circle) but it’s pretty impressive nonetheless.

Summer is also the only time to reach the highlands. The F-roads into the interior open between early June and mid-July, and the famous Laugavegur trail between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk is normally only hikeable from late June to early September.

Early July, before the school holidays get going, is probably the best time to go in summer. The temperatures are warmest during July and August, when Reykjavik averages around 11 to 12°C, but the crowds are marginally lower outside the holidays.

Locals joke about the country’s fickle weather. Friðrik Pálsson, the owner of Hotel Rangá, summed it up best: “Ask me about the weather in Iceland and I’ll say ask me in a minute“. In short, it changes all the time, and that’s just as true in summer as in the other seasons.

The Blue Lagoon and other hot springs: book ahead, and check the news

Geothermal water plays a crucial role in Icelandic life, perhaps none more so than the public pools and hot tubs that are part of everyday life for most Icelanders. You can’t go to Iceland and not visit a hot spring or pool, and you can visit most of them year-round.

The most famous is the Blue Lagoon, near Grindavík on the Reykjanes peninsula. I’ll be honest: I’ve never been. On my first trip, the thought of paying that much to sit in one of the country’s busiest spots didn’t fill me with glee, so I spent a couple of hours alternating between the pools and hot tubs in Hella instead, and it was lovely. If you do want to go, there’s something you need to know first. Since November 2023, a run of eruptions on the Sundhnúkur crater row next to Grindavík has repeatedly forced the lagoon to evacuate and close, sometimes for weeks; in November 2024 lava destroyed its car park. The most recent eruption ran from 16 July to 5 August 2025. The lagoon has reopened after each one, but it can close at very short notice. Check bluelagoon.com and safetravel.is on the morning you plan to go, and book a refundable ticket.

Entry is by pre-booked time slot, from ISK 11,990 for the standard Comfort package, and the most popular times sell out, especially in summer. This Blue Lagoon Comfort admission comes with free cancellation. May and September are the most pleasant months for an outdoor soak with fewer people, but winter, with snow on the ground and steam rising off the water, is hard to beat.

Sky Lagoon, close to Reykjavik and well away from the eruption zone, is the alternative I can vouch for. And if you’d like to bathe like the locals do, skip the big names and head to a community swimming pool: they’re mostly outdoors, with pools and hot tubs at different temperatures, and they’re perfect for a few hours of relaxation without the crowds.

The Northern Lights: September to April

Generally, the best time to see the Northern Lights in Iceland is from September to early April. Sightings can begin as early as late August, but this varies from year to year.

The equinox months, September and March, are particularly good times to see the aurora. They’re also milder than midwinter, and the longer days mean you can plan more activities around your nights out. Both of my aurora nights were around the September equinox.

The current solar cycle reached its maximum around late 2024, and the sun is still active, so strong displays are likely for a few winters yet. Remember, though, that sightings are never, ever guaranteed. Clear skies matter more than anything, so it’s best not to plan your whole trip around seeing the lights. My guide to the best time to see the Northern Lights in Iceland covers the months, the forecasts and where to stay in much more detail.

Whale watching: the best months for each species

More than 20 species of whale and dolphin have been recorded in Icelandic waters.

Whale watching tours from Reykjavik and Akureyri run all year round, but the best time to go depends on which part of the country you are visiting and what you want to see. Tours from Húsavík and Snæfellsnes mostly pause in winter.

June to August is the peak season for humpbacks, and the summer months have the highest proportion of sightings overall. In winter, whale watching becomes a challenge: the boats still go out from Reykjavik, but it’s also the season for gale-force winds and rough seas, so expect anything from blue skies to driving rain, sleet and snow, and go prepared.

Here are a few pointers to bear in mind when planning your visit:

• Minke whales are seen in Faxaflói Bay off Reykjavik all year.
• Orcas are seen off the Snæfellsnes peninsula from February to May, on tours from Ólafsvík.
• Blue whales are most likely in Skjálfandi Bay, off Húsavík, from mid-June to mid-July.
• Humpbacks are the most reliable sighting from spring to autumn, especially in the north.

Hiking: June to early September

The best time to hike is between May and September, when daylight is plentiful and there’s less chance of snow. June, July and August are the warmest months, and the only time when the highland trails and mountain roads are all open, which makes it easier to plan a hiking trip. In May and late September, many higher paths are snowbound or muddy, so stick to lowland walks such as the path up to Svartifoss.

Glaciers look their best in winter, when they’re covered in deep snow, but they are hazardous at any time of year and should only be walked with a guide.

Driving the Ring Road: May to September

One of the country’s best features is its Ring Road. When you think of ring roads, chances are you think of a road that circles a suburban town centre, clogged with traffic and that has you choking with fumes.

Nothing could be more different from Iceland’s version, Route 1, which circles the island for around 1,322 kilometres (821 miles), taking in glaciers, volcanoes, staggering coastal stop-offs and some of the most beautiful small towns imaginable. Give it seven to ten days if you can.

The best time to drive it is from May to September, when conditions are at their least treacherous and the long days help with visibility. Once October begins, the long nights really set in and conditions become much more difficult. On my September trip I drove back west along the Ring Road as the sun set over the sandur plains, with some banging tunes playing in the car.

While the road is usually drivable in winter, the weather can change quickly, with blizzards appearing from nowhere and black ice that can be tricky to handle even with the right winter tyres. My Ring Road guide has the full route.

North Iceland: May, June or September

North Iceland is quieter than the south, with many parts still undisturbed by overtourism, so it’s possible to get a sense of the real Iceland away from the crowds even in summer.

The best time to visit is from late May to June, as the days get longer, or in September, when the tourist season is over. In September you still get long-ish days (albeit not to the extent of high summer) and a good balance of what the region has to offer in daylight and after dark, when the aurora season begins.

You can visit in winter, but the roads, particularly the lesser-used ones and the mountain passes, can be treacherous. Hire a four-wheel-drive car with proper winter tyres, and check road.is before every journey.

Is there a worst time to visit Iceland?

The worst time for crowds is June to August. Many of the country’s biggest attractions are very, very busy during this time, and prices for cars and rooms are at their highest.

On the other hand, the worst time for outdoor activities is midwinter, from late November to January, when the cold and dark restrict all but the most adventurous of people. That said, winter works well for a Reykjavik city break with a lagoon or two, which is exactly what my December trip was. It’s only the worst time if you want long hikes and big road trips.

Iceland’s seasons at a glance

High season (June to August)

High season runs from June to August. June and July bring the midnight sun, and the days are still long in August. This is also the warmest time of year, though the weather can still be very unpredictable.

Pros of travelling in high season:

• The best time for outdoor activities, including hiking, kayaking and the highlands
• Long summer days
• Great for whale watching and puffins

Cons of travelling in high season:

• Crowds. All of the crowds.
• The highest prices of the year

Shoulder season (May, September and early October)

The shoulder season is May, September and the early part of October. This is the best time of year to travel for an all-round experience.

You don’t get the same number of tourists as in high season, but each month has its own attractions: birdwatching in May, Northern Lights spotting in September, to give two examples.

Pros of travelling in shoulder season:

• Lower prices
• Fewer tourists and still generally good access to attractions

Cons of travelling in shoulder season:

• No midnight sun (obviously!) and, in May, no aurora either
• The highland roads are closed in May and start closing in September

Low season (mid-October to April)

The low season runs from mid-October to the end of April. Daylight is pretty much non-existent in December (OK, four hours, but that’s still low) and, while Reykjavik usually hovers around freezing, temperatures in the interior can plummet to -20°C or below, with wind chill that makes it feel even colder.

Pros of travelling in low season:

• Ice caves and snowy glaciers at their best
• The longest nights for the Northern Lights
• Low crowds and lower prices

Cons of travelling in low season:

• Getting off the beaten track is difficult, thanks to road closures
• Many outdoor activities (apart from for the very experienced) are off the table, and some rural attractions close or cut their hours

Five questions to help you choose when to go

1. Are you going for an all-round experience? If yes, go in May or September.
2. Do you want to do a particular activity, such as whale watching, birdwatching, hiking, skiing or an ice cave tour? Check the best months for it above before you book.
3. Do you hate crowds? If yes, avoid the summer months, or visit the busiest sights early in the morning or late in the evening.
4. Do you want to see the Northern Lights? If yes, go between September and April (but remember they’re not guaranteed!).
5. Do you want to keep costs as low as possible? If yes, visit in the shoulder season or the low season.

Read next

• Unmissable things to do in Reykjavik
• Is Iceland expensive? What to budget for
• When’s the best time to see the Northern Lights in Iceland?
• Hotel Rangá review: Iceland’s Northern Lights hotel
• Cool Northern Lights hotels in Iceland
• Sky Lagoon: what the Sky Ritual is really like
• Stunning waterfalls in Iceland
• Discovering Iceland’s hidden gems
• Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon: a guide
• Gullfoss waterfall: a guide
• Brilliant things to do in Iceland
• Beautiful Iceland landmarks you have to see
• The definitive Iceland packing list
• How many days do you need in Iceland? What three trips in three seasons taught me

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