More than 7,600 islands, lagoons ringed by limestone cliffs, sardines swirling just off the beach and some of the kindest people on the planet. Plan your trip to the Philippines with first-hand guides to Siargao, Cebu and Palawan, from the route and the boats to what it all really costs.
The Philippines is made up of 7,641 islands, and that’s both its magic and its challenge. The beaches, lagoons and reefs really are as beautiful as the photos, but the distances are bigger than they look, and almost every journey involves a flight, a boat or a long van ride.
I spent about three weeks travelling from Siargao to Cebu and across Palawan. I swam with stingless jellyfish at Sohoton Cove, snorkelled through the sardine run at Moalboal, canyoneered down to Kawasan Falls, paddled into the Underground River and spent three days on a boat from El Nido to Coron. I’d worried I’d given the Philippines too much of my trip, but I could have stayed for months.
Our guides also draw on Kay Rodriguez, who has been to the Philippines seven times and whose family has lived on Camiguin for generations.
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The dry season, from roughly December to May, is the best time for most of the country. It’s coolest from December to February and hottest from March to May, when Palawan’s rooms and tours sell out first. From June to November, rain and about 20 tropical cyclones a year (mostly from July to October) can cancel boats and flights for days. Siargao, on the Pacific side, tends to be wettest from December to February.
I travelled in May and early June. The weather was mostly glorious, but the rainy season arrived right on cue in my last few days in Coron, with the loudest thunderclap I’ve ever heard. If your trip runs into June, do the boat trips first.
The jellyfish at Sohoton Cove are most plentiful from around March to June. Kay’s pick for Camiguin is October to March, with the Lanzones Festival in the third and fourth weeks of October.
Fly for the long distances. Cebu is the most useful hub, with flights to Siargao in under an hour and to Puerto Princesa, El Nido and Busuanga (for Coron). If you land in Manila and fly on from Clark, a free hourly shuttle runs from Bay 13 at NAIA Terminal 3 for passengers flying out of Clark within 24 hours.
Fast craft link neighbouring islands: Cebu City to Bohol takes about two hours, and El Nido to Coron about three and a half. Road journeys are long. My taxi from Cebu airport to Moalboal took almost four hours, and Puerto Princesa to El Nido is 5 to 5.5 hours by shared van. Once you arrive, tricycles cover the short hops (agree the fare first). Scooters on Siargao cost about ₱350 to ₱450 a day, and Grab works in Manila and Cebu. My getting around guide has the routes and fares.
Base yourself in General Luna, where almost every tour picks up. I stayed three nights in a private double with a balcony on Tourism Road. Stay at Happiness Hostel Siargao.
Stay near Panagsama Beach, a swim from the sardines. I stayed five nights in a big private room with a terrace and a hammock chair, and the team were lovely. Stay at Chief Mau Moalboal.
Stay central for an easy Underground River pick-up. My hotel, Hue Hotels, was fine for two nights, but I wouldn’t go back for the breakfast. Compare places to stay in Puerto Princesa.
Stay in town, so you can walk to the boats and to dinner. I moved from a tiny hostel room to a stylish, vegan-friendly hotel with a rooftop bar. Stay at H Hotel El Nido.
Coron town is the base for the island-hopping tours. I stayed four nights in a superior queen room on the hillside above the centre. It’s adults only, with a rooftop bar and a pool. Stay at Hop Hostel.
A long boat ride from Siargao, a swim into the snoring cave and then Tojoman Lagoon, where thousands of jellyfish drift around you. Shared tours cost about ₱2,700 to ₱3,000. It was one of my favourite days of the trip. See my Sohoton Cove guide.
Coconut viewpoints, the Maasin River, the Magpupungko rock pools at low tide and Sugba Lagoon behind the mangroves, for about ₱1,900 to ₱2,200. My first reaction at Sugba was just “oh wow”. See my land tour guide.
Millions of sardines swirl just off Panagsama Beach all year, and you can swim out to them from the shore. You don’t need to dive, because snorkelling gets you just as close. My sardine run guide explains how.
Jump, slide and swim down a turquoise river canyon near Badian, for about ₱1,900 to ₱2,200. I was nervous about doing it alone, and it was one of the best days I’ve ever had while travelling. Read my canyoneering guide.
A full day out from Puerto Princesa into one of the longest navigable underground rivers in the world, with bats overhead and a chamber called the Cathedral. Permits are capped at 900 a day. See my Underground River guide.
El Nido’s tours run from A to D and cost about ₱1,200 to ₱1,800 plus fees. I did A for the Big Lagoon and the Secret Lagoon, and C for Helicopter Island and the open sea. My island-hopping guide compares all four.
Three days and two nights through the remote Linapacan and Culion islands, snorkelling a shipwreck and sleeping at simple beach camps. It was one of the highlights of my trip. Read my Keelooma review.
Duck under a low arch of rock into an emerald lagoon, then hire a kayak to paddle away from the boats. The coral garden on my tour was the best snorkelling of my trip. My Coron island-hopping guide helps you choose a tour.
Kay Rodriguez’s family island has waterfalls, springs, a sunken cemetery and White Island, a sandbar that disappears at high tide. Her Camiguin guide gives you a local’s view.
Three weeks
Siargao – Moalboal – Puerto Princesa – El Nido – three days by boat to Coron – Coron
My 3-week Philippines itinerary never has more than one big travel day at a time.
Three days
Land tour to Magpupungko and Sugba Lagoon – island hopping and Cloud 9 – Sohoton Cove
Every day is planned around the tides. See my Siargao itinerary.
Three days
Arrival and a rooftop sunset – Tour A and the lagoons – Tour C and the open sea
The route I followed. See my El Nido itinerary.
Eleven nights
Puerto Princesa and the Underground River – El Nido – three days by boat to Coron – Coron
The Palawan half of the three-week route, if you only have time for one region.
A small island south of Cebu with waterfalls, cliff jumping and a reputation for folk healers. I didn’t make it, and everyone I met told me I should have. It’s first on my list for next time.
A quieter beach town between Puerto Princesa and El Nido. Many travellers rate its island hopping as highly as El Nido’s. Stop here to break up the long van ride.
An hour’s scooter ride from General Luna through coconut country, ending at a long, quiet beach that’s free to visit.
Beyond White Island, Kay’s favourites include the Santo Niño Cold Spring and the naturally fizzy Bura soda springs. Each costs about ₱30 to ₱50 to get in.
My Filipino food guide covers 12 dishes, with prices.
A beachside café and bar right by the Cloud 9 boardwalk. I had a flat white and a mango pudding: so chill, and so good.
On the beachfront at Panagsama, looking towards Pescador at sunset. The boiled tuna belly was my favourite meal in Moalboal, and mains cost about ₱250 to ₱300.
A sutukil restaurant on Panagsama Road, where your seafood is grilled, cooked in a broth or served raw. I shared a seafood feast and pork sisig here with people from my dive. Cash only.
The rooftop bar at H Hotel. I watched the sunset from here two nights running, with a cocktail and a saxophonist playing smooth jazz. Get up there early.
Mango margaritas with a spiced rim and a huge plate of kare-kare for about ₱350, plus ₱100 for garlic rice. A fitting last Filipino meal.
The Philippines isn’t the cheapest country in South-East Asia, but it’s very good value. Domestic flights, island-hopping tours and the small environmental fees are what add up.
Not counting food or tours, I spent about £1,710 on rooms, two domestic flights, the Keelooma expedition and my flight out. My private rooms averaged about £65 a night, and three days on the expedition boat cost less than four nights at my Coron hostel.
My trip cost guide has my spend line by line.
The main tourist trail is generally safe, with the usual petty crime and scams in cities. The UK Foreign Office and US State Department advise against travel to parts of Mindanao, the Sulu archipelago and the Sulu Sea, but Siargao is excluded, and the UK also excludes Camiguin. The Foreign Office warns that ferries have a poor safety record, especially from June to December, so use reputable operators and don’t board in bad weather.
See a travel clinic at least eight weeks before you go. The UK’s TravelHealthPro recommends hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid jabs for most travellers, and rabies, hepatitis B and Japanese encephalitis are worth considering. Dengue peaks from June to October, so wear repellent, and drink bottled or filtered water.
Tipping isn’t required, but it matters: in most regions the minimum wage is about ₱450 to ₱600 a day. Leave about 10% in restaurants that don’t add a service charge, and tip guides, boat crews and drivers 10% or more for great service.
Swimming with the sardines from the shore at Moalboal is free: you only pay about ₱100 to ₱200 for a snorkel set. In El Nido, Nacpan Beach and Las Cabanas Beach have no entrance fee, and Las Cabanas faces straight out to the islands at sunset. On Siargao, the walk out along the Cloud 9 boardwalk costs ₱100.
Eat at carinderias, the local canteens, for about ₱75 to ₱150 a meal, and pick tours that include lunch. On Camiguin, Kay points out that the old Spanish church ruins at Bonbon are free to explore.
Packing for the Philippines? Don’t forget…
Kay’s Philippines packing list has the rest, plus the baggage rules.
Make sure your policy covers medical evacuation from remote islands, diving to the depth you’ll dive, scooters if you’ll ride one, and cancellations for bad weather. Private hospital care in the Philippines is expensive. Some trips, like the Keelooma expedition from El Nido to Coron, won’t take you without insurance. A single-trip policy from the UK typically costs around £45. Compare policies with AXA Travel Insurance.
Thank you – Salamat
Delicious – Masarap
Let’s eat – Kain tayo
Is it spicy? – Maanghang ba ito?
Yes (to an elder) – Opo
Philippine Standard Time, UTC+8, with no daylight saving: eight hours ahead of the UK in winter and seven in summer.
220 to 230V at 60Hz, with Type A and B sockets, and sometimes Type C. UK plugs need an adapter. US plugs fit, but check your chargers are rated 100 to 240V.
H Hotel El Nido review: a vegan-friendly hotel with a rooftop for sunset
3 days in Moalboal: the perfect Moalboal itinerary
3 days in Coron: the perfect Coron itinerary
3 days in Siargao: the perfect Siargao itinerary
Siargao travel guide: things to do, tips and where to stay
Camiguin island guide: things to do, ferries and tips from a local
Filipino food: 12 dishes to try in the Philippines
How much does a trip to the Philippines cost? My real budget
Is the Philippines worth visiting? My honest verdict
Magpupungko rock pools, Siargao: tides, prices and tips
Sugba Lagoon, Siargao: how to visit, prices and tips
Siargao land tour: what’s included, prices and tips
Sohoton Cove tour from Siargao: the jellyfish lagoon, caves and what to expect
Kawasan Falls canyoneering: how to book, prices and what to expect
Moalboal travel guide: the best things to do in Moalboal, Cebu
Cebu travel guide: the best things to do in Cebu, Philippines
Puerto Princesa Underground River: how to visit, permits and tours
The Moalboal sardine run: should you snorkel it or dive it?
Coron island hopping tours: which tour to choose
El Nido travel guide: the best things to do in El Nido, Palawan
Coron travel guide: the best things to do in Coron, Palawan
How to get from El Nido to Coron: ferry, flight or boat expedition
Keelooma review: island hopping from El Nido to Coron by boat
3 days in El Nido: the perfect El Nido itinerary
El Nido Tour C: Helicopter Island, hidden beaches and Matinloc Shrine
El Nido Tour A: Big Lagoon, Secret Lagoon and what to expect
El Nido island hopping: Tours A, B, C and D compared
Getting around the Philippines: how to travel between the islands
The ultimate Philippines packing list: what to bring for islands, boats and beaches
Philippines travel tips: 41 things to know before you go
45 absolutely spectacular places to visit in the Philippines
3 weeks in the Philippines: the perfect Philippines itinerary
Short films from the places in my guides, so you can see what a destination really looks and feels like before you go.
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