Five secret spots in the Alentejo, from fishing coves to cork forests

The Alentejo is Portugal’s hidden treasure. Boasting spectacular beaches, traditional fishing villages, historical towns and perfect hikes, here are five spots in the Alentejo you shouldn’t miss.

While I’ve been to Portugal many times, I’d never visited the Alentejo until I drove up from Faro one October to walk the Rota Vicentina. Perched above the Algarve, below Lisbon, and extending into the heart of the country, the Alentejo is the secret spot that those in the know don’t want you to find out about.

Not sure where to start? Here are my five favourite spots in the region that you simply shouldn’t miss on your Portugal itinerary. All five sit in the wild south-west corner of the region, between the coast and the cork-covered hills, and they’re easiest to reach with a hire car.

Five off-the-beaten-path places to travel in the Alentejo

1. Azenha do Mar, Odeceixe

Tucked behind the rugged cliffs of the Alentejo coast, Azenha do Mar is a small village that dates back to the sixties.

While the village welcomes a slowly increasing number of visitors, in no small thanks to the stunning Fishermen’s Trail of the Rota Vicentina (which I once named one of the best hikes in Europe) that winds its way along the coast, fishing still remains the main livelihood of the village’s inhabitants.

The trail runs for about 226km in 13 one-day stages, mostly along clifftops and sandy fishermen’s paths, and Azenha do Mar sits on the stretch between Zambujeira do Mar and Odeceixe. The cliffs are constantly eroding, so keep to the marked path and well back from the edge.

It’s quiet, the small natural harbour framed by the rocky outcrops and towering cliffs typical of this section of the coast. One of the biggest attractions is simply grabbing a spot on one of the coastal bluffs, watching and listening to the roar of the Atlantic as it thrashes against the rocks.

Like much of the region, locals are friendly and welcoming. Seasoned by years of battling against difficult conditions, they’re proud to talk about the village’s unusual history: it was set up by a handful of people from the isolated hills inland, trying to make a better life for themselves during the difficult times of the Portuguese dictatorship.

Even today, they don’t lead an easy life. The fishermen make and repair their own lines, tying hundreds of small hooks to thin lines that they cast out. At the end of the day, each one has to be painstakingly looked over and repaired.

Food also plays a central role in village life. Perhaps unsurprisingly, considering its location, Azenha do Mar is also home to one of the Alentejo’s best seafood restaurants, right by the harbour. It doesn’t take reservations, so you may have to put your name on the list and wait for a table at this busy spot, but it’s totally worth it: a feast of the freshest Portuguese seafood awaits. It’s closed on Wednesdays.

Just inland, in the hamlet of Brejão, I learned how azulejos are made from tilemaker Rita Silvério Morais, who builds tiny raised walls on each tile to keep the colours apart, the traditional way.

2. Santiago do Cacém

Brimming with history and charm, the cobbled town of Santiago do Cacém takes its name and much of its story from the knights of the Order of Santiago, who were given the town after it was taken from the Moors in the 13th century.

It also marks the beginning of the Historical Way, the Rota Vicentina’s long-distance walk, which runs for 263km in 13 stages all the way to Cape St Vincent, through cork groves, eucalyptus forests and remote villages.

More than this, Santiago do Cacém is an enchanting destination that is definitely worth spending some time in during your trip to the Alentejo.

The town itself has a rather curious history. Legend has it that the town is named after a victory over a Moor called Kassen on Santiago’s Day, and over time the name of Santiago de Kassen evolved to its modern-day moniker, Santiago do Cacém.

So what’s there to see? Take some time to walk through the town’s gorgeous cobbled streets, each one lined with an array of colourful houses and intricately designed Portuguese azulejos (tiles).

An imposing castle sits on the hill above the town, a rectangular formation of ten towers, each with spectacular views of Santiago do Cacém itself and the surrounding countryside (inside the walls, you’ll find the town’s cemetery). Next to it, the 13th-century parish church is only a fraction less impressive, thanks to a series of renovations and alterations that have taken place throughout the centuries.

3. Monte da Estrada

Delve into the heart of the traditional Portuguese cork forests in the Odemira region. Put on your hiking boots and take to the paths that wind their way through the area.

It’s an overused term, but Monte da Estrada is a place to escape from it all and explore the natural surroundings. The forests offer some hiking opportunities that are too good to miss and, if you’re lucky, you might even spot some of the local wildlife: wild boar are spotted far more often than you might think.

Other than the wildlife, Monte da Estrada’s highlights include the peaceful chapel of Senhora das Neves, perched on a tall hill (beware, it’s a steep puff to get to it) above the region. The Senhora das Neves circular route of the Rota Vicentina leads up to it.

Watch out for the slightly disconcerting Anjo Homem statue by sculptor Esmerelda Sobral as you make your way up. Make it to the top and you’re rewarded with far-reaching views of the surrounding area and a nice ridge walk before you scramble your way back down into the valley again.

4. Santa Clara a Velha

The small village of Santa Clara a Velha is everything that you think of when you conjure up an image of a traditional Portuguese village: whitewashed houses with splashes of colour, a maze of small streets clustered around a pretty church.

While the village itself is worth spending some time in, take the opportunity to explore the surrounding region, crammed with dramatic vistas and a chance to glimpse the local life of days past.

The Rotas de Santa Clara, two circular walks of about 23km in all that meet at the village like a figure of eight, are the perfect opportunity to see the region on foot.

The region is dominated by the large Barragem de Santa Clara, a dam on the Mira river completed in 1968 to irrigate the farmland downstream. Over the decades, its reservoir has provided the backbone for a unique habitat, notable for its birdwatching opportunities and fertile lands filled with flora and fauna.

Interestingly, the relative remoteness of some parts of the region enables visitors to step back in time to the Alentejo of days long ago. There are few roads, no large cities, no big population. You can experience local culture in a way that you can’t in more developed areas.

Locals are fiercely proud of their heritage, none more so than Maria Odete Ramos de Oliveira, who has preserved her family’s farmhouse just as it was generations ago.

A visit to Odete’s homestead immerses you in the traditions that governed the farm, the house and even the local schoolroom, all through the words of the characterful Odete herself. If you’re lucky, she’ll even dish out a small glass of the local firewater, medronho. The visit is part of Arrátel, a small-group day out run by the Odemira artisans’ association and listed on the Rota Vicentina website.

5. Vila Nova de Milfontes

The Alentejan town of Vila Nova de Milfontes might not be a secret to the Portuguese, but surprisingly few people outside of the country (other than dedicated surfers and keen hikers) have ever heard of it. A shame, as this coastal town has a lot going for it.

Beach-wise, you’re spoilt for choice: Vila Nova de Milfontes is situated in a particularly beautiful stretch of the Alentejo coastline.

Hotspots like Praia do Malhão practically demand a few hours of sunbathing on their fine sandy shores. Many of the beaches are framed by large coastal dunes, which burst into colour during the spring as the wildflowers come into bloom.

Though the town itself is relatively small, it too has its charms: an old fort overlooks the mouth of the Mira as it flows into the ocean.

There are several small restaurants and cafes, such as Stress Free, a small venture run by a young Portuguese couple from Lisbon who were attracted by the town’s laid-back outdoorsy lifestyle. The menu is bursting with fresh ingredients and Portuguese flavours, with plenty for vegetarians and vegans too: a must-try while you’re in town.

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