The underwater waterfall in Mauritius is hiding in plain sight (here’s how to see it)

You’ve probably seen the photos: a torrent of ocean pouring off the edge of the island and into the deep. Stand on the beach beneath Le Morne, though, and all you’ll see is a pretty turquoise lagoon. Here’s what’s really going on out there, and the handful of ways to see it for yourself.

Mauritius is a slice of heaven I’ll always want to return to (and, full disclosure, I keep doing exactly that: I’ve been three times now).

This peaceful island nation showcases the finest of mother nature, from luscious rainforests teeming with wildlife to sun-kissed beaches and oceans rich in marine life.

And, of course, waterfalls. Mauritius has more than its fair share of them, but there’s one I’d call the strangest of the lot, and it sits just off the south-west tip of the island.

On one trip I stayed at the Outrigger in Bel Ombre, on the wild south coast, with Le Morne Brabant’s great block of a mountain just along the shore. On my most recent trip, in late November, the plane came in over the west coast and there it was again on the horizon, the lagoon glowing around it. From the beach, though, there’s no hint of what’s happening on the seabed just beyond the reef.

So let’s dive into what the underwater waterfall in Mauritius actually is, where to find it, and how to get the view everyone’s after.

What is the underwater waterfall in Mauritius?

Sure, waterfalls are pretty to look at. But an underwater waterfall that is an optical illusion (more on that in a moment) will blow your mind.

Sorry to spoil the illusion, but it isn’t a waterfall at all. It’s easy to fall for it, though (get it?).

Off the island’s south-west corner, the shallow shelf the island sits on ends abruptly, and the seabed plunges away into the deep ocean. Currents sweep sand and silt along the coast and over that edge. Seen from above, the pale streaks of sand against the dark water beyond look exactly like a cascade being sucked down a giant drain, which is why some people call it a sandfall instead.

It’s stunning beyond measure, but it’s really its rarity, and the fact that you need a bird’s-eye view to see it, that makes it so special. Besides the bragging rights, you’ll have some gorgeous photographs to show for it.

Where exactly is it?

You’ll find it just off the Le Morne peninsula, the south-western tip of the island, roughly 800 metres from the shore below Le Morne Brabant. The closest beaches are Le Morne public beach and La Prairie, around an hour’s drive from the airport and a little longer from Port Louis.

If you’re curious before you go, switch Google Maps to satellite view and zoom in on the sea off Le Morne: you can make out the shape of it from space.

How deep does it go?

Beyond the reef, the ocean floor here falls away to abyssal depths, and figures of around 4,000 metres are often quoted for the water off this coast. That depth is what gives the illusion its inky backdrop: the darker the water, the brighter the sand streaks look against it.

Best not to go exploring the drop-off yourself, I reckon. This is open ocean with strong currents, well outside the protection of the reef.

What’s the story behind it?

There’s a story often told alongside the waterfall, but it really belongs to the mountain above it.

Le Morne Brabant, the 556-metre basalt peak that towers over the peninsula, sheltered escaped slaves (known as maroons) in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Legend has it that after slavery was abolished on the island, a police expedition climbed towards their hideout on 1 February 1835 to tell them they were free. Believing they were about to be recaptured, the maroons leapt from the cliffs rather than return to slavery.

Whether every detail is true or not, the mountain became a symbol of the fight for freedom. It was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, and the International Slave Route Monument at its foot is well worth a quiet stop. Some say the tragedy and the strange sight offshore are somehow connected, but that’s folklore: the illusion is pure geology.

How to see it for yourself

If you haven’t figured out how to spot the waterfall yet, you’re not alone. I’m sorry to say that you can’t see it from the beach or from a boat, and you can’t really see it by swimming or surfing either. You need height, and the more of it the better.

Take a seaplane flight from Le Morne

The most affordable way to get the full view is a scenic flight with LagoonFlight, which flies small ultralight seaplanes from La Prairie beach, right next to Le Morne. It’s one passenger per plane, sitting just behind the pilot, so the views are unobstructed (couples can fly side by side in two planes).

Flights range from a 15-minute hop over the lagoon and the waterfall to an 80-minute tour that adds Black River Gorges National Park. Prices start from around €149 for the shortest flight. Passengers need to be at least 14, and bad weather means a free rebooking or a refund.

See the whole coast by helicopter

The classic option is a helicopter, and it’s the one that gives you the whole sweep of the south-west coast in one go. You’ll have a bird’s-eye view of the motion and the hues of blue of the cascading illusion, with Le Morne Brabant and the lagoon below.

Shared flights from the south coast helipads at Bel Ombre and Chamarel take about 15 minutes and cost from around £160 per person through operators such as Manahe (they need a minimum of four passengers to run). Private flights are where it gets pricey: from around €1,660 for a group of up to five from Bel Ombre, rising to more than €2,000 if you fly from the airport. You can organise a private flight right here.

Note that touring by helicopter over the waterfall is an expensive way to spend half an hour, but a memorable experience nonetheless.

Climb Le Morne Brabant for the view from the top

If you’d rather earn your view, take a guided hike up Le Morne Brabant. Be warned that it’s no stroll: the trail is about 3.5km each way with around 540 metres of climbing, and the final section to the cross near the summit is a hands-and-feet scramble with a few fixed ropes and some exposure. Allow three to five hours for the round trip.

From the top, you’ll look down over the lagoon, the reef and the open ocean where the illusion lies. Be realistic, though: from this angle you can make out roughly where it is, but you won’t get the full cascade effect you’d see from the air. It’s the view of the peninsula and the lagoon that makes the climb worth it.

The gate at the trailhead officially opens from 7am to 4pm, entry is free, and wardens can close the upper section after rain, when the rock gets slippery. Guided sunrise hikes are the way to beat the heat. There’s more on the trail in my guide to the best hikes in Mauritius.

Grab a window seat on the way in

It won’t give you the full illusion, but don’t underestimate the view from the plane. On my late November flight, the approach traced the west coast and Le Morne’s flat-topped peninsula appeared beyond the wing, ringed by the lagoon. It’s a free first look at the south-west coast, so keep your camera handy and your eyes peeled.

Fly a drone (with a permit)

The famous shots are often taken by drone, but you can’t simply turn up and fly one. Drones and their pilots must be registered with the Department of Civil Aviation in Mauritius, which runs a police check on every applicant and can take three months or more, so apply well before your trip. Plenty of hotels ban drones on their grounds too.

Can you swim or surf there?

Not at the illusion itself. Inside the reef, the Le Morne lagoon is calm, shallow and lovely for swimming and snorkelling, and it’s one of the best kitesurfing spots in the world. Outside the reef is a different story: the drop-off is open ocean with powerful currents, and the famous reef break here, One Eye, is strictly for experienced surfers and kitesurfers.

So if diving into the waterfall is on your bucket list, swap it for a flight. If you’re not much of a water baby, the lagoon views from Le Morne public beach are a lovely consolation prize.

Planning your trip to Le Morne

When is the best time to see the underwater waterfall?

Clear skies and calm conditions matter more than anything. September to December is a lovely time to visit in general, with warm, mostly dry weather that’s kind to scenic flights. January to March brings the most rain and the risk of cyclones, while the winter months from June to August are cooler and windier, which is great for kitesurfers but can ground ultralight seaplanes.

Whatever the month, keep a couple of days free so you can move your flight if the weather turns.

Where to base yourself

The south-west is the best base: Le Morne and Bel Ombre put you within easy reach of the seaplane, the south coast helipads and the trailhead for a sunrise hike.

The Outrigger Resort is always my first choice when it comes to where to stay in Mauritius. Set in the Bel Ombre nature reserve, a corner of ridiculous natural beauty, about half an hour’s drive from Le Morne, it blends a laidback stay with sheer indulgence.

The villas are stunning, surrounded by tropical scenery and blessed with an indoor and outdoor shower, which is how you know you’re somewhere a little bit more off the grid.

Read my full review here

For more areas, from the beaches of Flic en Flac to the quieter north, see my guide to where to stay in Mauritius.

Make a day of it in the south-west

The waterfall pairs perfectly with the rest of the south-west. Chamarel is a short drive inland, with its 100-metre waterfall, the Seven Coloured Earth and the rum distillery, and the beaches of Le Morne and La Prairie are made for an afternoon in the lagoon after an early flight or hike. For more ideas, see my round-up of the best things to do in Mauritius.

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Read next

• Discover Chamarel Waterfall, Mauritius
• Outrigger Mauritius: the full review
• Stunning waterfalls in Mauritius you have to visit
• The best hikes in Mauritius
• 2 weeks in Mauritius: the perfect Mauritius itinerary

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