Planning to travel to Merida, Mexico? Here’s what you need to know before you go. Not planning to travel to Merida? Here’s why you should.
Mérida is one of Mexico’s up-and-coming destinations, a chilled blend of pretty architecture, laid-back bars and cultural attractions. No wonder it’s popping onto so many travellers’ Mexico itineraries.
It’s no secret that I loved my five-week trip to Mexico. While every spot I visited had its own appeal, I actually liked Mérida so much that I went back to spend more time there. There was something about the city that, quite frankly, I couldn’t get enough of.
That’s why I’ve written this guide to Mérida: everything you need to know to make the most of your trip.
A Little History: Why Mérida Looks the Way It Does
To understand Mérida, it helps to know two things about its past. The city was founded by the Spanish in 1542 on the site of the ancient Maya city of T’hó, and much of the early colonial architecture, including the cathedral, was literally built from the dismantled stones of Maya pyramids. That layering of Maya and Spanish worlds runs through everything here.
The second thing is henequen. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Mérida grew astonishingly wealthy on the trade in henequen, an agave fibre known as “green gold” and used to make rope and twine the world over. At one point Mérida was said to have more millionaires per capita than almost anywhere on earth, and those fortunes built the grand European-style mansions that line the Paseo de Montejo today. Knowing that backstory makes a wander down that boulevard infinitely more interesting.
Cool Things to do in Merida
While much of the city’s appeal is the relaxed atmosphere, cool bars and stellar restaurants, there are a few Merida attractions that you shouldn’t miss.
Take a Free Walking Tour of Plaza Grande
I always love a walking tour as an intro to a new city. This one, hosted by Mérida’s tourism board, is a lovely (and free) way to kick off your time here.
Conducted in both Spanish and English, it walks you through the main attractions clustered around Mérida’s central square, Plaza Grande. You won’t cover much distance, but you’ll get to grips with the city’s history in a brisk hour and a half.
Visit the Catedral de Mérida
When you’re wandering the historic centre, pay special attention to the stunning Catedral de Mérida. Built between 1561 and 1598, it is one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas, and was constructed on the site of a Maya temple using stones taken from the very pyramids the Spanish demolished.
It is also considered the first cathedral in the Americas to be completed entirely within the colonial mainland, and the oldest built on the mainland of the Americas. Beyond the history, it’s a beautiful example of austere early colonial design, with a soaring, surprisingly pared-back interior that’s all the more striking for its simplicity.
Head to Palacio Canton
Merida has more than its fair share of museums and galleries. The Palacio Canton sits in a grand building on the Paseo Montejo – more on that in a moment.
Inside, an ever-changing exhibition focuses on the Mayan world – packed with artifacts it’s small but informative and engaging enough to justify a peek inside.
Explore Museo del Mundo Maya
If you only have time for one museum in town, make it the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya. The first thing you’ll notice about it is its award-winning architecture. The museum, based in the north of Mérida, is a nest of green and silver metal against the blue sky. It represents the ceiba tree and, with it, the importance of nature in Mayan life.
The museum showcases the Mayan culture and ways of life of times present and past. At times it’s a bit dry but there are plenty of interactive displays to liven things up a bit. I walked away with a much better understanding of the Yucatan’s heritage and would recommend that you visit.
Stroll Down the Paseo de Montejo
One of my favourite streets in Mérida, and one of the most popular, the Paseo de Montejo is a grand boulevard modelled on the great avenues of Europe, the Champs-Élysées in particular.
This is where Mérida’s henequen barons built their mansions at the turn of the 20th century, and many of those palatial homes now house museums, galleries and restaurants. Head down here to admire the late 19th and early 20th-century architecture, and to do a little respectful snooping on how the other half once lived.
Wander Through Parque Santa Lucia
Back in the day, Parque Santa Lucía was where passengers boarded and alighted from the stagecoaches that travelled between Mérida and its surrounds. Those days are long gone, but it remains a hub of Méridan life, in no small part thanks to the free Thursday evening concerts held here. It’s also the spot for the obligatory cheesy photo posing in the famous white Mérida “confidente” chairs.
If you only have time to see one museum during your time in town, make it the Museo del Mundo Maya. The museum tops the charts of the best things to do in Merida.
Shop at Casa T’ho
Merida isn’t big on the boho-style in the same way that other Yucatan destinations like Tulum are but Casa T’ho is the exception. This collection of bohemian boutiques is a great option if you’re looking to pick up a few pieces at not-so-unreasonable prices.
Stroll Down the Paseo de Montejo
One of my favourite streets in Merida (and one of the most popular), Paseo de Montejo is a very famous boulevard that’s considered one of the most emblematic streets in the city.
Head down here to peek at the colonial architecture of the late 19th and early 20th century… And to snoop on huge mansions. Many of which are now museums and restaurants.
Best Places to Eat & Drink in Merida
Wayan’e
OMG, they really are as good as they say.
I toyed with the idea of not going to Wayan’e, since it was my last day in town and the branches are all a decent walk outside the centre. I’m so glad I didn’t let my laziness win. These were, hands down, the best tacos I had in town, and at around 22 pesos each (well under £1 / $1.20), almost criminally cheap.
My advice? Order as many as you can feasibly eat. It’s hard to pick a favourite, but the huevo con chaya (egg and chaya leaves) was a strong contender, closely followed by the castacan (crispy pork belly), Wayan’e’s signature. The unctuous, fatty pork and the fire of the habanero is perfection. On second thoughts, though, it was the frijoles taco that seized the day. Who knew a black bean taco could hum with so much flavour?
Rosa y Xocolate
Ignore the fact that it’s an Instagrammer’s dream (though watching person after person strike awkward pose after awkward pose against the pink walls is entertainment in itself) and know that Rosas y Xocolate is worth the hype.
Set in a beautifully restored mansion on the Paseo de Montejo, the cocktails are great, the food is delicious and the service is impeccable. Expect a fusion of Mexican flavours with influences from further afield, courtesy of award-winning chef David Segovia, who turns even a humble roast chicken into a work of culinary art. Cocktails run from around 180 to 280 pesos.
La Chaya Maya
La Chaya Maya is a hugely popular spot for Yucatecan food, so I made it my first stop after arriving in the city. It didn’t disappoint.
Opt for the breakfast panuchos, crispy corn tortillas with your choice of toppings. I went for the cochinita pibil pork, the classic shredded turkey, and the Maya (chaya leaves with onion and veg). All three were tender, deeply flavoured and a perfect contrast to the crunchy tortilla.
Avoid the juice and coffee, though, both were on the disappointing side. Mains run from around 150 to 300 pesos, and there are two central locations, both in Centro..
Chilakillas
Haven’t come across Mexican chilaquiles yet? You’re in for a TREAT. This small breakfast and lunch spot specialises in one thing and one thing only: chilaquiles (Chilakillas, get it?).
Think crispy tortilla chips drenched in sauce and served with avocado, onions, veg and a topping of your choice. The challenge is to eat it before it goes soggy, which isn’t much of a challenge when it tastes this good.
Manifesto Coffee
Manifesto is an independent coffee shop, the type that serves up the really good stuff. They have their own roastery upstairs, working with beans from across Mexico’s top coffee regions like Oaxaca, Chiapas and Veracruz, and it shows.
This was the best coffee I had in Mérida, and most of my days started with a flat white or two from here. You’ll see their “manifesto” on the walls: coffee made only with freshly roasted beans, with attention paid to water quality. Mildly pretentious, sure, but the coffee is so good there’s clearly something to it. You’ll find them on Calle 59.
La Esquina
Remember I mentioned the Paseo de Montejo and how it’s lined with restaurants? La Eskina is one such place, and somewhere to sample some of the tastiest food in the city. The outside might not look quite as grand as some of its neighbours, but I guarantee you won’t find a more delicious menu nearby. Order the pork chops. You won’t regret it.
Where to Skip on Your Trip to Merida
Part of being genuinely useful is telling you where not to bother. These were my misses.
Museo Fernando Garcia Ponce Macay
Wasn’t a fan at all of this weirdly-laid-out museum. There was no cohesion and only a smattering of interesting pieces amongs what is a relatively substantial collection.
The labyrinthine layout kept me hostage long after any vestige of interest I had in being there had long fled.
Hotel Caribe
Don’t bother – literally the worst margarita I’ve ever had. It was like drinking a snow cone where they’d forgotten the syrup or any kind of flavour.
Manjar Blanco
Manjar Blanco crops up on a few lists of places to eat in Mérida, but I wasn’t convinced. I visited on a Sunday for breakfast and ordered the 110-peso deal: a main, fruit, coffee and orange juice.
The huevos motuleños were a disappointment, made with supermarket ham, Edam rather than the queso fresco advertised, a bland tomato sauce and, bafflingly, heated frozen peas. It was fine, but not mind-blowing, and there are far too many great eateries nearby to settle for fine.
Practical Tips for Your Trip to Mérida
Where to Stay in Merida – Sercotel Casona 61
Merida is filled with chic boutique places to stay and I stayed in three separate places during my time there.
Sercotel Casona 61 actually ended up being my favourite hotel from the whole of my five weeks in Mexico. It’s just a short walk away from Merida’s central plaza, Plaza Grande, as well as many of the best bars and restaurants in the city.
That’s only a fraction of the appeal though. Where Sercotel Casona 61 really shines is in the uber-cool, design-led decor present throughout the property. It looks every inch the high-end boutique hotel, but prices are actually surprisingly reasonable. My room even came with its own private rooftop area and plunge pool (which obviously I had to have a few dips in).
How Long to Spend in Merida?
Although Mérida is a large city, the historic centre is relatively small and compact. Don’t let that fool you into thinking you can whizz around the old town in a day, though. I’d recommend at least three to four days to see the best of the city and use it as a base for the surrounding Maya sites and cenotes.
Best Time to Visit Merida
Merida is warm and humid all year round, with a rainy season that runs from June to October. High season is focused on the months between December and April – which tend to be relatively dry but much busier. The hottest months are June to September, when it can be overwhelmingly hot, even at night.
Top Tip
Overall, it’s best to visit Merida between October and December, just before the start of the high season as this is when accommodation costs less, there are fewer crowds but the weather is at its best.
How to Get to Merida
Merida has its own airport from which you can catch local and international flights. If you’re flying to Cancun, I’d recommend catching the ADO Bus (which goes straight from Cancun airport) to Merida’s central bus station and then hopping in a taxi or walking to your accommodation from there.
PS: Planning a trip to Mexico? Check out my Mexico Travel Tips Video
Things to do in Merida, Mexico: Map
That’s it folks – I hope that you have a brilliant time in Merida, the Yucatan’s capital. It really was one of my favourite destinations from my time in Mexico.
Any further tips or suggestions? Drop them in the comments below.
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Hi!
I didn’t see mention of swimming in the underwater cave filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
Is it worth it?
Thank you!