Patagonia travel guide

Granite towers, calving glaciers and wind strong enough to knock you off your feet. Plan your trip to Patagonia in Chile and Argentina, from the W Trek and the Perito Moreno Glacier to Fitz Roy and Tierra del Fuego.

Julianna BarnabyTravel and culture writer

I hiked the W Trek in Torres del Paine on my own in January, sleeping in the refugios at Grey, Paine Grande, Los Cuernos and Chileno. On day two the wind blew me two paces backwards for every step; on day four I scrambled over a boulder field to the towers minutes before the weather turned grey. It was the biggest hike I had ever done, and one of the most memorable.

Over the border in Argentina, I fell for El Calafate. Standing on the Perito Moreno boardwalks, close enough to feel the cold rolling off the ice, is one of those experiences that stays with you, and the day trip to El Chaltén and Fitz Roy might just be my favourite. This guide covers both sides of the border.

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Start here

Torres del Paine W Trek: a step-by-step guide to hiking the W in Patagonia

El Calafate, Argentina Travel Guide: Discover The Jumping Off Point for Patagonia

The ultimate Torres del Paine W Trek packing list

The ultimate guide to camping in Torres del Paine

When to go

The season runs from October to April, peaking from December to February, when every trail, boat and refugio is open; November and March are quieter. From late April to mid-September, the W needs an accredited guide, and in 2026 it closed completely in June and July.

I went in January and still had rain, blazing sun and gale-force wind. My guide to the best time to visit Chile goes month by month.

Getting there and around

Pases Parques: Torres del Paine tickets.
Vertice Patagonia and Las Torres Patagonia: W refugios.
Parques Nacionales: Argentina’s park tickets.
Skyscanner: the cheapest flights.
Bus-Sur: buses across the region.

Fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas, then take the three-hour bus to Puerto Natales. Runway works will limit Puerto Natales airport mainly to weekends from January to March 2027.

In Argentina, fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate or Ushuaia. Buses link Puerto Natales and El Calafate in about six hours, via Cerro Castillo. For the Carretera Austral, fly to Balmaceda and hire a car.

Where to stay

Puerto Natales

The gateway to Torres del Paine. Stay at The Singular Patagonia, a converted cold-storage plant on the fjord.

Torres del Paine

On the W, you sleep in refugios or campsites (see Kay’s camping guide). For a proper bed, stay at Hotel Las Torres, where I finished the trek.

El Calafate

Base for the Perito Moreno Glacier. For a touch of luxury, stay at Xelena Hotel & Suites, with views over Lago Argentino. On a budget, I’d pick Patagonia Queen.

El Chaltén

Trails to Fitz Roy start from the edge of town. Stay at Hostería Senderos.

Carretera Austral

Beds are limited in Puerto Río Tranquilo, the Marble Caves village, so book early: browse places to stay.

Ushuaia

Stay at Los Cauquenes Resort + Spa, on the Beagle Channel.

Hotel Las Torres Torres del Paine, Chile Check availability

Xelena Hotel & Suites El Calafate, Argentina Check availability

Hostería Senderos El Chaltén, Argentina Check availability

Tours

Torres del Paine: the W Trek with G Adventures Torres del Paine full-day tour from Puerto Natales El Calafate: Perito Moreno Glacier tour with boat ride More tours

Know before you go

Top things to do

Hike the W Trek in Torres del Paine

Four to five days past Glacier Grey, through the Francés Valley and up to the granite towers. I walked it solo, west to east; my W Trek guide has the day-by-day.

Climb to Mirador Base Torres

No time for the W? The climb to the towers works as a long day hike. The last stretch is a boulder scramble: my poles went away and my hands came out.

See the Perito Moreno Glacier

Boardwalks face the glacier’s ice wall, about 80km from El Calafate. Add a boat trip, or walk on the ice in crampons; my El Calafate guide has the tours.

Hike to Laguna de los Tres beneath Fitz Roy

El Chaltén’s classic long day hike ends at a glacial lake below Fitz Roy, after a steep final climb. It’s an easy day trip from El Calafate.

Hike to Laguna Torre beneath Cerro Torre

I hiked the trail to Laguna Torre, where a glacier-fed lake sits beneath the needle of Cerro Torre. It’s about 9km each way from the edge of El Chaltén with far less climbing than Laguna de los Tres, so it’s the one to choose if you only have a day.

Drive the Carretera Austral to the Marble Caves

Chile’s Route 7 threads through northern Patagonia’s fjords and forests; from Puerto Río Tranquilo, short boat trips slip into the swirling marble caverns of Lago General Carrera.

Sail the Beagle Channel from Ushuaia

Boat trips pass sea lion colonies and the Les Éclaireurs lighthouse.

Suggested itineraries

The W Trek

Five days

Puerto Natales – Refugio Grey – Paine Grande – Los Cuernos – Chileno – Puerto Natales

The route I walked, west to east.

Patagonia’s highlights

Ten days

Punta Arenas – Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine – El Calafate – El Chaltén

Chile’s towers and Argentina’s glaciers.

Argentine Patagonia

Ten days

Buenos Aires – Bariloche – El Chaltén – El Calafate

Follow my Argentina itinerary.

Hidden Patagonia

Dientes de Navarino

Often called the world’s southernmost trek, this loop above Puerto Williams is best from December to March.

Cerro Castillo National Park

The Las Horquetas trek crosses high passes below Cerro Castillo’s spires, minus the crowds.

Dishes and drinks to try

Dishes to try

Cordero al palo – lamb spit-roasted over an open fire.
Centolla – southern king crab.
Calafate – the purple berry said to bring you back to Patagonia.

Drinks to try

Austral – Patagonian beer from Punta Arenas.
Malbec – Argentina’s signature red.

Must-try bars and restaurants

Isabel Cocina al Disco, El Calafate

Hearty Argentinian dishes such as mutton stew, slow-cooked on a plough disc, in the heart of town.

Casimiro Biguá, El Calafate

A high-end Argentinian grill in the centre, with live music.

Costs and budgeting

Patagonia is pricey. Argentina’s unofficial exchange rate gap has all but closed, so foreign cards get a fair rate.

Torres del Paine, foreign adults: CLP 48,500 for up to 10 days, CLP 32,400 for one day
Los Glaciares National Park (Perito Moreno and El Chaltén): AR$50,000
Tierra del Fuego National Park: AR$40,000

Safety, health and tipping

Safety

The real danger is the weather: in November 2025, a storm with gusts of more than 190km/h killed five hikers on the O Circuit. Respect the rangers’ cut-off times and turn back if conditions change.

Health

The sun is strong on clear days, even when it’s cold. In the parks, help can be hours away, so carry a first aid kit.

Tipping

Chilean restaurants add a suggested 10% tip to the bill; in Argentina, around 10% is usual.

Practical tips and info

Tips for travelling

Book refugios, campsites and park tickets months ahead for December to February.
Chile bans fresh fruit, meat and dairy from Argentina, so complete the SAG declaration before crossing.
Carry cash: there are no ATMs in Torres del Paine.

How to see the best for free

The biggest views cost no more than a park ticket. Before the W, go to the free trekking talk at Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales: it was exactly the wake-up call I needed.

Packing

Packing for Patagonia? Don’t forget…

Hard shell and warm layers: even in summer.
Hiking poles: mine were in my hands from the moment I stepped off the catamaran.
Dry bags and a rain cover: strapped on, not flapping about.

Hiking the W? My Torres del Paine packing list has the full kit list.

Travel insurance

You’ll be hiking hours from a hospital in weather that changes by the hour, so make sure your policy covers hiking, mountain rescue and both countries. I use AXA Travel Insurance.