How to chase the Northern Lights in Tromsø, Norway

Plan your Northern Lights chasing trip to Tromsø with this in-depth guide.

Just about every travel-loving person I’ve met has one thing in common on their bucket list: to see the elusive yet spectacular northern lights.

Nothing amazing in life comes easy, though, and the northern lights are no exception. By the time my trip to Tromsø rolled around, things weren’t looking promising. The forecast was terrible: nothing but cloud and a low Kp index. I had three nights booked, and I was beginning to think I might not see them at all.

But I did a few things that really helped maximise my chances, from booking a Northern Lights hotel to downloading a million apps to work out where it would be least cloudy. And it worked.

Those nights, despite the bitter cold, were some of the most spectacular and awe-inspiring nights of my life.

All in all, I’d highly recommend visiting Tromsø for the northern lights. The northern lights aren’t a sure bet anywhere in the world, but Tromsø is a fantastic destination to attempt to see them.

Take a peek at my video about chasing the Northern Lights in Tromsø!

Chasing the Northern Lights in Tromsø, Norway: what you need to know

What are the Northern Lights?

You might be curious about what the northern lights actually are, and why they only occur in certain areas of the world. In short, the lights are caused by collisions of charged particles from the sun with atmospheric gases. When the solar wind occurs, particles shoot towards the Earth at high speeds.

The lights can be different colours, depending on the types of gases that these charged particles collide with. Oxygen creates the most common green auroras, while nitrogen auroras produce red and purple light.

If you’re curious to learn more, this post explains the aurora borealis phenomenon, including the relationship of solar activity and why certain auroras are different colours.

When and where can you see the Northern Lights?

There’s a reason the aurora borealis has been nicknamed the “northern lights;” because they’re most easily seen from the northernmost parts of the world.

This is because the northernmost and southernmost parts of the world are closest to the magnetic poles of the Earth, and this is where the collisions are most likely to happen.

Some common countries for seeing the northern lights include Canada, Alaska, Iceland, Greenland, Norway, and Finland. Within Norway, you can see the northern lights in Lofoten, Tromsø, Bodø, Alta, Svalbard, and many other small towns in the northern part of the country.

You must plan your trip in the autumn, winter or early spring: the northern lights aren’t visible in summer because, this far north, the sky never gets dark enough. In Tromsø, the season runs from late August to early April.

My Northern Lights trip to Tromsø

I’ve now seen the Northern Lights on all three of my aurora trips, in Iceland, Rovaniemi and Tromsø, but this was my first time in Tromsø (I’d been to Lofoten before). Here’s how it played out.

Night one: cloud. I started at ÆRA, about half an hour outside Tromsø, in an aurora cabin with a glass roof, so you can lie in bed and watch the sky. There was a point where the Kp index looked high enough, but the cloud cover was pretty much 100% from 9pm onwards. No Northern Lights.

Night two: success (just). The forecast gave about an 11% chance. After dinner, I turned off all the lights in the cabin and set up my camera, because I thought I could see a faint glow. There was green in that sky, framed by the cabin. Of course, that was too cosy, so I headed outside, down by the lake with the mountains behind, and got some really cool shots (while trying to keep a helicopter that was scanning the lake out of frame). Any aurora is better than no aurora. Then it was time for the sauna.

Night three: chasing. I moved into central Tromsø and added an extra night to my stay. It had been crazily cloudy for days, so I spent most of the day on various apps, working out where the clouds would be at what time, and mapping that against locations I’d read were good for Northern Lights viewing.

It absolutely delivered. I drove out to Oldervik, and could see the lights as I was driving. It was cloudy en route, but when I got to Oldervik, it was completely clear. I watched dancing aurora displays for two hours and ran timelapses. That one night made it worth booking the extra one.

It really doesn’t seem real when the sky is glowing green and dancing above you. Absolutely otherworldly.

Why visit Tromsø, Norway to view the Northern Lights?

Unlike many places in the world where the northern lights are visible, Tromsø is perfectly situated for viewing the northern lights, as it is located well inside the Arctic Circle, right under the auroral oval, and the Gulf Stream keeps winters milder than you might expect.

At this time of year, pretty much every evening you’ll be able to see the Northern Lights here, as long as it’s not too cloudy. And with fjords, mountains and islands all within an hour’s drive, there’s usually somewhere to escape the cloud.

There’s a sizeable airport in Tromsø that has several flights each day from Oslo and other nearby cities, making it easily accessible if you’re short on time.

The most popular time to see the northern lights in Tromsø is October through February, but they are visible from as early as late August until early April.

Top tips for seeing the Northern Lights in Tromsø

1. Be realistic

Although Tromsø is a fantastic place to see the auroras, the “green lady” is a really elusive beast, and despite lots of scientific methods of tracking and forecasting, there’s really no good way to know whether you’ll see the northern lights on any given night.

A few of the main factors that can affect the visibility of the northern lights include:

• Light pollution
• Weather
• Solar activity
• Latitude
• Dumb luck

Knowing this, be sure to keep in mind that there’s a decent chance you may not see the lights. Even if you cross your fingers really hard.

Even if you bribe the northern lights fairies. And yes, even if you’re on a northern lights tour. You’re always taking a gamble when you book a trip around the Northern Lights. I fully understood that, but would a tiny bit of me have been upset if I hadn’t seen them? Absolutely.

2. Stay in Tromsø for as long as you can

Your chances of seeing the northern lights in Tromsø increase the more nights you have in town.

If you’re only there for 2 days and it storms both nights, then you’re pretty much out of luck for seeing the auroras. However, if you spend 4-7 nights in the city, your chances of seeing the lights will be higher because you have more chances to try again. My best night was the one I added at the last minute.

If your top priority is to see the lights, I recommend spending your entire trip in the Arctic Circle, where your chances of seeing them will be much higher.

However, you can move around a bit between Tromsø and nearby viewing areas, like Alta and Senja, or further south to Lofoten.

3. Watch the clouds, not just the Kp index

This was the game-changer for me. In winter, the aurora is often there; the question is whether you can see it through the cloud. So don’t just watch the Kp index: watch the cloud cover, hour by hour, and work out where the gaps will be.

I’ve got loads of weather apps on my phone, and Windy Premium has been the most reliable for Tromsø. On my best night, I spent hours mapping its cloud forecast against known viewing spots, then drove to the one that was going to be clear.

4. Join a Northern Lights tour (or hire a car)

Driving in the Arctic Circle can be extremely challenging, with dark, icy roads and high winds being very common. If you are not an experienced Arctic driver, it’s best not to leave it to chance. Instead, sit back, relax, and let the experts do the work.

Especially if you’re visiting the Arctic Circle or viewing the northern lights for the first time, I can’t stress this enough: if you’re not confident driving in Arctic conditions, join a tour.

I know, I know, you might not be a “tour person” or perhaps you don’t want to shell out the money, but if you really want to maximise your chances of seeing the northern lights, a tour is a great way to go.

Why? Because your guides can help you see the lights by literally “chasing” clear, dark night skies and steering clear of clouds.

Sometimes the guides drive all the way to Finland to find northern lights viewing areas for their guests. (Now that’s dedication, right there.)

In addition to being experienced northern lights chasers and experts on the region, many guides can also help take photos of you with the lights (a difficult feat, indeed), or provide photography tips so you can learn how to photograph them yourself.

So, while the price of northern lights tours may seem high, you’ll be getting a lot of value and a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the auroras.

That said, I hired a car and went self-guided, and it worked brilliantly. If you’re confident driving on snow and ice, it gives you total flexibility to go wherever the clear skies are. Rental cars come with winter tyres in winter, but take real care on icy roads.

Book This Northern Lights Bus Tour

5. Commit yourself to the entire night

Viewing the northern lights isn’t usually a hit and run kind of deal. You have to be ready to travel long distances and stop at a moment’s notice to see them.

Often, the lights get brighter and more colourful as the night progresses, so you’d really be missing out by only spending a few minutes trying to chase the lights. At Oldervik, I watched them for two hours.

Because it’s a very time- and distance-intensive process, be ready to spend the whole night (sometimes until nearly dawn) chasing down these elusive natural spectacles.

6. Get out of the city

Light pollution can really inhibit you from seeing the northern lights, even if they are there and the skies are clear. You’ll be able to see the lights much better if you get outside of the city and go somewhere with clear, dark skies.

Plus, it’s much more beautiful to see them amidst beautiful mountains or reflecting off the water.

To do this, you’ll either need to rent a car (only if you’re confident driving in Arctic conditions), stay somewhere outside the city like ÆRA, or hop on a tour (see below).

7. Wear lots of layers and hand warmers

I’m not going to sugar coat this one: you’re going to be cold.

Not only will you be in the Arctic Circle, but you’ll be in the Arctic Circle at night in some pretty rural places, generally standing around for at least a couple of hours.

This means there will be wind, ice, and potentially snow. Knowing this, wear LOTS of layers and don’t forget a hat. Yes, I’m talking all of your best layers, from your merino wool baselayers all the way to your puffy overcoat.

You might think I’m exaggerating, but this is the kind of outfit you need for a night out in the cold. Seven top layers isn’t over the top:

• Sports bra
• Sweat-wicking tank top or t-shirt, like these Prana sweat-wicking tank tops. They also make great t-shirts for women and men.
• Merino wool baselayer, like this SmartWool baselayer
• Quarter zip thermal layer: a standard running thermal layer works really nicely for layering.
• Puffy down sweater: a compressible one packs down to nothing in your suitcase.
• Wool sweater: an Icelandic lopapeysa (traditional wool sweater) is perfect, but any thick wool jumper will do.
• Parka: you’ll need a parka to seal the deal, like this one.

On your bottom half and extremities:

• 2 pairs of leggings
• Hiking trousers
• A warm knit scarf
• A warm hat (beanie style is best)
• Thermal e-tip gloves
• Three layers of wool socks

Your feet and hands are going to be cold no matter how many layers you have on.

So whatever you do, bring some self-heating hand warmers, so that your fingers and toes don’t feel like they’re falling off every time you spend more than a few minutes outdoors. Take it from me: pack the hand warmers.

8. Bring a camera and tripod

While many tours will take photos and share them for your own personal use, you’ll probably want your own photos to cherish this amazing spectacle. Recent phones with a night mode can pick up the lights surprisingly well, but for the best shots, bring a camera and tripod.

I set my camera up on a tripod inside the cabin at ÆRA, which is how I caught that first faint glow, and ran timelapses at Oldervik.

9. Don’t forget your warm beverage

One of the most soothing things on many aurora borealis tours is warm hot chocolate and a bonfire, and many providers include hot drinks in the price.

After being out in the cold photographing and marvelling at the lights, a warm drink literally feels like heaven.

However, I still recommend bringing some hot tea or hot chocolate in a thermal mug (a Hydro Flask is perfect for this) so it will stay warm all night and you’ll have access to a burst of warmth whenever you need it. Trust me, you’ll thank me later for this one.

10. If you don’t see them this time, try again

Like I mentioned above, there’s a chance you won’t see the northern lights at all during your trip. I know this isn’t what you want to hear: it’s not what anyone wants to hear when they’re planning a trip.

However, it doesn’t have to be the end of the world for you. You might have to try 3 times (or more) before you actually get to see them.

I hear so many stories like “I was in Iceland for nine days and didn’t see the Northern Lights once.” It happens, even to people who do everything right.

To help ease your worries, be sure to plan other excursions during the day (some suggestions below) and enjoy the scenery and winter activities around Tromsø too.

This way, whether you see the lights or not, you’ll be sure to have a lovely trip if you diversify your activities and enjoy many of the non-lights things that Tromsø has to offer.

Best places to see the Northern Lights near Tromsø

The trick is to get away from the city lights, with a clear view north. These are the spots I used or scouted on my trip:

• Oldervik: about 50 minutes north-east of Tromsø on the Ullsfjord side, with wide views north over the water. This is where I had my best night. The road is narrow, so park considerately.
• ÆRA and the lake at Skittenelv: around 30 to 45 minutes from the city, and where I saw them on my second night, both from the cabin and down by the lake.
• Ersfjordbotn: about 20 to 25 minutes from the city on Kvaløya, with an amphitheatre of snowy mountains around the fjord.
• Grøtfjord: about 40 minutes from Tromsø on Kvaløya, and supposed to be a great spot if it’s clear.
• Sommarøy: about an hour away, with white sand beaches facing out to sea.
• Fjellheisen: no car? Take the cable car 421 metres up Mount Storsteinen. It runs until midnight, and on a clear night you can watch for the lights above the city.

Best Northern Lights tours in Tromsø

You can find tour operators offering tours for any kind of traveller in Tromsø, from minibus chases (which is a cheaper option) to private guides and tours. Big coach tours are cheaper still. They cannot guarantee that you’ll see the lights on your tour, but they work extra hard to find the right light and weather conditions to see the auroras, sometimes driving all the way out to Finland to find them!

During the course of the evening, your guide is there to take photos of you with professional camera equipment and offer tips on how to photograph the lights yourself.

If you’re an amateur photographer or simply want to understand how to use your camera to capture images, this is a great resource for you. Later in the night, the guide also builds a bonfire and supplies hot chocolate and biscuits to help warm you up under the lights and the stars. Alternatively, this tour comes with free professional photos.

Some people love their tour so much that, despite the Norwegian price tag, they book another for the next night.

In season, there’s also a combined Northern Lights and whale-watching safari, which looks great. I’d missed whale season by the time I visited.

Practical tips for seeing the Northern Lights in Tromsø, Norway

Where to stay in Tromsø

If seeing the aurora is your priority, stay outside the city. I stayed in one of the glass-roofed aurora cabins at ÆRA, where you can lie in bed underneath the glass roof and watch the Northern Lights. It’s in a beautiful lakefront spot away from the bright lights of Tromsø, close to other good spots like Oldervik, and the hotel sends aurora alerts on WhatsApp (until midnight). You will need a car. Read my full ÆRA Tromsø review.

In the city, I stayed at Enter St. Elisabeth for the second part of my trip: a cool little boutique hotel with huge suites and good value. It’s a good base if you’re booking tours.

One con of visiting Tromsø (or Norway in general) is the cost. It’s EXPENSIVE. In order to not burn a hole in your bank account, consider staying in a budget hotel, a hostel, a campsite or an Airbnb in Tromsø.

The Thon Hotel is a good budget-friendly choice: it isn’t the fanciest place, but it’s relatively well priced, central and comfortable.

Book Thon Hotel Tromsø here

Other budget options include:

• The cabins at Tromsø Camping: this summer campsite offers heated rental cabins during the winter, including an economy option.
• Tromsø Activities Hostel: a good choice if you’re travelling solo.
• Radisson Blu: you always know what you’re getting with a Radisson Blu. Low-key luxe at reasonable prices.

There are also plenty of full-service hotels in town, but don’t be alarmed when you see the prices, which are much higher than you’d find in most other places. See my guide to where to stay in Tromsø for more.

Other things to do in Tromsø besides the Northern Lights

Like I mentioned above, you’ll probably want to plan some other excursions during the day to get to know Tromsø and the surrounding area. Luckily, Tromsø has a variety of wonderful activities to offer, including:

• Feed reindeer and learn about Sámi culture
• Go dog sledding
• Ride the Fjellheisen cable car
• Road trip through the Lyngen Alps
• Visit the nearby fjords and islands, like Kvaløya and Sommarøy
• Explore the city
• And more! See my guide to the best things to do in Tromsø in winter, or follow my 3-day Tromsø itinerary.

Travelling to see the northern lights in Tromsø, Norway is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I couldn’t recommend it more.

Tromsø itself is beautiful and fun to explore, and the northern lights are truly a spectacular sight. With the right planning and expectations, you’ll be sure to have a fantastic trip no matter what.

Northern Lights chasing in Tromsø: read next

• Visiting Tromsø in Winter
• 3 Days in Tromsø: The Perfect Tromsø Itinerary
• Northern Lights in Norway: How to Plan the Perfect Trip
• How to See the Northern Lights
• ÆRA Tromsø Hotel Review
• Why You Need to Visit the Lofoten Islands
• When is the Best Time to See the Northern Lights

Need Inspiration For Your Tromsø trip? Watch This!

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