Sedona travel guide

Hike the Courthouse Butte Loop

Pretty much my favourite hike in Sedona: about 3.8 miles round Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock, with expansive red rock views and only around 300 feet of climbing. Park at Courthouse Vista or Bell Rock Vista on SR 179 with a Red Rock Pass.

Admire the Chapel of the Holy Cross

Completed in 1956 and built straight into the buttes south of town. You can go inside, but it’s the exterior that really wows. Entry is free, and on busy days the Sedona Shuttle Connect ($2) saves you the tiny car park.

Watch the light change from Airport Mesa

Some of the best views in Sedona, especially in the late afternoon, when the low sun sets the rocks glowing. The free pull-out fills fast; parking at the lookout at the top costs $3.

Drive Red Rock Loop Road

A nice scenic drive west of town, with views of Cathedral Rock above Oak Creek. Stop at Crescent Moon Picnic Site ($15 per car) for Cathedral Rock reflected in the creek.

Hike to the Cathedral Rock vortex

Short but steep: about 1.2 miles round trip with roughly 700 feet of climbing, much of it a scramble up bare slickrock. Take the free Sedona Shuttle, as the trailhead has only about 45 spaces.

Walk out onto Devil’s Bridge

The largest natural sandstone arch around Sedona. Most people start at the Mescal or Dry Creek Vista trailheads, both on the free shuttle route.

Browse the galleries at Tlaquepaque

Whitewashed arches, courtyards and fountains beside Oak Creek, with more than 50 shops, galleries and places to eat.

Visit Montezuma Castle

A five-storey Sinagua cliff dwelling about 40 minutes south of Sedona. I visited in February, and it’s well worth the short drive. Entry is $10 per adult.

Sedona in 3 days

Three days

Airport Mesa and Tlaquepaque – Chapel of the Holy Cross – Courthouse Butte Loop – Devil’s Bridge and Palatki – Red Rock Loop Road – Amitabha Stupa – a jeep tour and stargazing

My 3-day itinerary groups the sights so you’re not criss-crossing town.

A long weekend in red rock country

Two days

Courthouse Butte Loop – Chapel of the Holy Cross – sunset at Airport Mesa – Montezuma Castle and Montezuma Well – Jerome

The best hike, the best viewpoint and the cliff dwellings on the way south.

Sedona, the Grand Canyon and Phoenix

Six days

Phoenix and the Heard Museum – Montezuma Castle – Sedona for three nights – the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, two hours north

Use my day trips from Sedona and 2-day Grand Canyon itinerary to fill in the days.

The far side of Courthouse Butte

The busy trails cluster round Bell Rock, but the far side of the Courthouse Butte Loop is much quieter, so you’ll have stretches almost to yourself.

Palatki Heritage Site

Sinagua cliff dwellings and rock art spanning thousands of years beneath a red cliff west of town. Book a timed ticket on Recreation.gov.

Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park

A 36-foot Buddhist stupa in 14 acres of juniper woodland at the foot of Thunder Mountain, with walking paths and red rock views.

Montezuma Well

A spring-fed sinkhole that’s part of Montezuma Castle National Monument, about 11 miles from the castle and free to visit.

Dishes to try

• A breakfast taco – my pick from the Coffee Pot Restaurant’s menu of 101 omelettes.
• Cactus fries – the Cowboy Club’s famous Southwestern side.
• Cold-pressed juice and raw eats – from Local Juicery, to set you up for a hike.

Drinks to try

• Verde Valley wine – from the tasting rooms on the Verde Valley Wine Trail, including Old Town Cottonwood.
• Fresh juices and smoothies – Local Juicery’s speciality.

Coffee Pot Restaurant, West Sedona

A brilliant breakfast spot, open daily from 6am to 2pm, famous for its menu of 101 omelettes (so of course I had a breakfast taco). Hearty food in a lively setting with zero pretension.

Local Juicery, West Sedona

A nice spot for fresh juices, smoothies, açaí bowls and plant-based snacks to take on the trail. It opens daily from 8am.

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill, West Sedona

Lisa Dahl’s restaurant on a hillside, with floor-to-ceiling windows over the red rocks. I thought the food was pretty overpriced for what it was, but the views are stunning: go for lunch (11am to 2pm) rather than dinner.

Elote Cafe, Uptown Sedona

Chef Jeff Smedstad’s Mexican and Southwestern restaurant on Jordan Road, named for its fire-roasted corn elote, served as a creamy dip. I ate here, and tables go fast, so book ahead on the restaurant’s website. It’s open for dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday from 5pm to 9pm.

Sedona isn’t cheap, especially in Uptown, but many of the best sights are free or cost a few dollars to park.

• Red Rock Pass: $5 a day, $15 a week or $20 a year
• Crescent Moon Picnic Site: $15 per car
• Slide Rock State Park: $20 per car from October to April, $30 in summer
• Montezuma Castle: $10 per adult, also covering Tuzigoot
• Sedona Shuttle: free; Sedona Shuttle Connect: $2 a ride

Safety

Cathedral Rock and Bell Rock involve steep scrambles on bare slickrock: go only as far as you’re comfortable, and remember that coming down is harder than going up. Avoid washes near the Pocket Fire burn scar in heavy rain, when flash floods are a risk.

Health

No special vaccinations are needed. The heat is the main risk on Sedona’s exposed trails: carry plenty of water and hike early in summer. You might see javelinas, mule deer and the odd rattlesnake in warmer months, so keep your distance.

Tipping

Tip 18% to 22% at sit-down restaurants, US$1 to US$2 a drink at bars and 15% to 20% for jeep tour guides and drivers.

Tips for travelling

• Escape the commercial side of town and get out on a trail or two to really appreciate Sedona.
• The most popular trailheads fill by mid-morning, so start early or use the Sedona Shuttle.
• Book hotels early for spring and autumn, and dinner reservations ahead too: some restaurants are booked up weeks in advance.
• Check the Coconino National Forest alerts before you hike, especially north of town after the 2026 Pocket Fire.
• UK and other Visa Waiver visitors need an approved ESTA (US$40.27) before flying.

How to see the best for free

Many of Sedona’s highlights cost nothing. Entry to the Chapel of the Holy Cross and the Amitabha Stupa is free, the free pull-out on Airport Road gets you to the Airport Mesa vortex, and Tlaquepaque is free to wander. Montezuma Well, near Montezuma Castle, is free too.

Most trailheads need a Red Rock Pass, but it’s only $5 a day, and America the Beautiful passes are accepted instead. The free Sedona Shuttle takes you to Cathedral Rock, Soldier Pass and Devil’s Bridge from Thursday to Sunday, so you don’t have to fight for parking.

Packing

Packing for Sedona? Don’t forget…

• Hiking trainers with good grip: for the slickrock, and for the mud after rain or snow.
• A water bottle: there’s no water on most trails.
• An outer shell: it can be hot by day, but the desert cools quickly at night, and February was cold.
• A daypack: for water, layers and snacks on the trail.
• A Red Rock Pass: buy it online before you go or from the machines at the trailheads.

Travel insurance

US medical bills are notoriously high, so make sure your policy has generous medical cover for the USA, including mountain rescue if you plan to scramble up Cathedral Rock or Bell Rock. Compare policies with AXA Travel Insurance.

Suggested guidebooks

• Moon Arizona & the Grand Canyon
• Lonely Planet Southwest USA

Interesting facts

• The Chapel of the Holy Cross was completed in 1956, and its 90-foot cross fills the whole front of the building.
• Sedona is an International Dark Sky Community, with strict rules on outdoor lighting.
• The Cowboy Artists of America was founded at the Cowboy Club in 1965.
• The Red Rock Scenic Byway on SR 179 was named an All-American Road in 2006.
• Montezuma Castle was one of the first four national monuments in the US, in 1906.

Time zone

Arizona stays on Mountain Standard Time (UTC-7) all year, with no daylight saving: seven hours behind the UK in winter and eight in summer.

Electricity and adapters

Type A and B plugs, at 120V and 60Hz.