USA
San Francisco travel guide
Cable cars clanking up impossible hills, fog spilling over a bridge painted International Orange and a burrito worth crossing town for. Plan a trip to San Francisco, from when to come and where to stay to the neighbourhoods and guides to read first.
Julianna BarnabyTravel and culture writer
San Francisco packs a lot into a small space: a peninsula of about seven miles by seven, with the Pacific on one side, the bay on the other and the Golden Gate between them. The famous hills hold the old money of Nob Hill and the Beat bars of North Beach, the waterfront runs from the Ferry Building to Fisherman’s Wharf, and the sunnier, scruffier south has the Mission and the Castro.
San Francisco is my favourite big city in the US, and I’ve returned more than once. Each time it’s the neighbourhoods that win me over: a burrito at La Taqueria and the murals of Balmy Alley in the Mission, an afternoon in the Castro, the lanterns of Chinatown, and a plate of oysters at the Ferry Building that I never manage to walk past.
Everything you need to plan a visit is below, along with links to all my San Francisco guides.
Some links in this article may be affiliate links, which means we may receive a small commission, at no additional cost to you, if you decide to purchase through one of my recommended partners.
When to go
September and October are the months to aim for. They’re usually the warmest and clearest of the year, which catches out most first-time visitors, and the summer crowds have thinned. Summer itself is often grey and cool, as the fog rolls in off the Pacific most afternoons, so pack a jumper for July. Winter is mild but wetter, with most of the rain falling between November and March.
The weather also changes block by block. The Mission can be basking in sunshine while the bridge disappears into cloud, so whatever the month, dress in layers you can peel off and put back on.
Getting there and around
- SFMTA: Muni buses, streetcars and cable cars, with the MuniMobile app and Visitor Passports.
- BART: trains from SFO and Oakland airports, and across the bay to Berkeley.
- Alcatraz City Cruises: the official ferry tickets to the island.
- Skyscanner: flights into SFO or Oakland.
- Rentalcars.com: car hire for trips out of the city.
- GetYourGuide: bay cruises, Alcatraz tickets and food tours.
SFO sits around 13 miles south of the centre. BART gets you from the airport to Powell Street in half an hour or so, for about $12, and you just tap in with a contactless card or phone. Oakland’s airport is on BART too. Around town, a Muni bus, streetcar or cable car ride costs $2.85, paid with a contactless card, phone or Clipper.
Where to stay
Union Square
The most central base, with the shops, the theatres and the Powell Street cable car on the doorstep. Hotel Emblem, a block from the square on Sutter Street, is a small boutique hotel themed on the Beat writers, with a book-lined writers’ nook and a cocktail bar named Obscenity.
Fisherman’s Wharf
Touristy, but handy for the Alcatraz ferry, the sea lions at Pier 39 and the cable car turnaround. The Argonaut Hotel, a boutique hotel with a nautical theme, fills an old brick cannery warehouse by the Hyde Street Pier.
Nob Hill
Grand hotels, steep streets and views from the top. On the lower slopes, the family-run Cornell Hotel de France on Bush Street has around 50 individually decorated rooms, a French restaurant and the Powell Street cable car round the corner.
The Mission and the Castro
My favourite part of the city, for food, murals and nightlife, with fewer hotels and more short-term rentals.
Tours
Know before you go
Top things to do
Walk across the Golden Gate Bridge
The east sidewalk is free and open to walkers every day, with the city on one side and the Marin Headlands ahead. Walk it early, while it’s quiet and before the fog rolls in.
Spend a day in the Mission
My favourite neighbourhood, and the place for street art: Balmy Alley and Clarion Alley are lined with murals, and La Taqueria on Mission Street serves the best burritos I’ve eaten. Mission Dolores, the city’s oldest surviving building, is a block from Dolores Park.
Wander through Chinatown
I never visit without a wander through the oldest Chinatown in North America, from the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue to the dim sum houses and herbalists of Stockton Street.
Eat your way around the Ferry Building
The 1898 terminal on the Embarcadero is now a food hall, with a farmers’ market three days a week. I’ve never managed to walk past Hog Island Oyster Co without stopping.
Take the ferry to Alcatraz
I’ve taken the ferry out to the island prison, and it’s worth the effort: walking through the cellhouse, under the old water tower, with the city skyline across the bay, stays with you. A visit takes around half a day. Boats sail from Pier 33 and sell out weeks in advance in summer, so book as soon as you know your dates.
Ride a cable car
The Powell-Hyde line hauls you up and over Nob Hill and Russian Hill, then down to the bay beside the Buena Vista Cafe. Queue at the Powell Street turnaround, or hop on further up the line.
Get lost in Golden Gate Park
More than 1,000 acres of lakes, gardens and museums, stretching three miles to the ocean. I badly underestimated its size on my first visit, so give it more time than you think.
Soak up the history of the Castro
San Francisco’s LGBTQ+ neighbourhood, with rainbow crossings, packed bars and the Harvey Milk story on every corner. Another of my favourite places in the city.
Suggested itineraries
San Francisco in a day
One day
The Golden Gate Bridge at dawn, a cable car ride, Chinatown and North Beach, then oysters by the bay
My one day in San Francisco itinerary has the route, stop by stop.
Two days in San Francisco
Two days
The waterfront, Chinatown and North Beach, then Golden Gate Park, the Painted Ladies and the Mission
My 48 hours in San Francisco fits it all in without rushing.
San Francisco and Yosemite
Five days or more
Two days in the city, then three in Yosemite Valley, or carry on up the coast
Pair my 3-day Yosemite itinerary with the city, or follow my West Coast road trip north to the redwoods.
Hidden San Francisco
Bourbon & Branch
A Prohibition-style speakeasy in the Tenderloin, behind an unmarked door; you need a reservation and a password. I had a very good cocktail here.
Fort Point
A brick Civil War fort right under the southern end of the Golden Gate Bridge, free to visit, with the best view up at the span.
Sonoma
An hour north of the bridge, quieter and more laid-back than Napa. I’ve been to both and preferred Sonoma.
Dishes and drinks to try
Dishes to try
Mission burrito
A huge flour tortilla stuffed with rice, beans, meat and salsa, wrapped in foil: the Mission’s gift to the world.
Sourdough
The city’s tangy bread, baked here since the Gold Rush. Try it as a bread bowl of clam chowder down at the wharf.
Dungeness crab
The local crab, usually in season from November, cracked and eaten with butter at the wharf.
Drinks to try
Irish coffee
The Buena Vista Cafe, by the cable car turnaround on Hyde Street, poured America’s first Irish coffee in 1952, and it still makes them by the hundred.
Must-try bars and restaurants
Hog Island Oyster Co
Raw oysters and a glass of crisp white at the Ferry Building. I’m an oyster lover, and I always stop here.
La Taqueria
The burrito joint on Mission Street, with queues out of the door. The most outrageously good burritos I’ve had.
Vesuvio Cafe
The Beat writers’ bar in North Beach, next to City Lights Bookstore. I’ve popped in one evening, and the cocktails are great.
Costs and budgeting
San Francisco is one of the most expensive cities in the US, so hotels will eat most of your budget.
- Muni ride: $2.85
- Visitor Passport: $15 a day, or $35 for three days, cable cars included
- BART from SFO to downtown: about $12
- Golden Gate Bay cruise: from $39
- Golden Gate Ferry from Sausalito: $14 one way
Safety, health and tipping
Safety
Car break-ins are the most common problem for visitors, so keep your car empty. Parts of the Tenderloin and around Civic Center are best avoided late at night, and keep an eye on your phone on busy cable cars and streetcars.
Health
The tap water is safe to drink. The hills are hard on the legs, so pace yourself, and the sea is cold all year: don’t swim at Ocean Beach, where the currents are strong.
Tipping
Leave 18% to 22% at sit-down restaurants, US$1 to US$2 a drink at bars, and around 15% to 20% for guides and drivers. Some restaurants add a surcharge to the bill, so check it before you tip on top.
Practical tips and info
Tips for travelling
- Never leave anything in a parked car, not even for a few minutes: break-ins are common at viewpoints and car parks.
- Skip the car in the city. Parking is scarce and expensive, and the hills are easier on foot and by Muni.
- Buy a Visitor Passport if you’ll ride the cable cars more than once: it covers them along with buses and streetcars.
- Reserve your Alcatraz ferry early, especially for summer weekends.
- Flying in from the UK or another Visa Waiver country? Apply for your ESTA (US$40.62) well before you travel.
How to see the best for free
Many of the best things in the city cost nothing. Walking the Golden Gate Bridge, the coastal trail at Lands End, the murals of the Mission, Chinatown, the Painted Ladies at Alamo Square and most of Golden Gate Park are all free. So is the Cable Car Museum on Mason Street, where you can watch the cables that pull the cars.
Packing
Packing for San Francisco? Don’t forget…
- A light jacket and a warm layer: the fog and the wind off the bay arrive with little warning, even in summer.
- Comfortable shoes for the hills: you’ll walk more than you expect. I wear my Tropicfeel Canyons.
- A lightweight daypack: to carry the layers you’ll keep taking off.
- Sunscreen: the sun burns through the fog more often than you’d think.
Travel insurance
Medical care in the US is very expensive, so check that your policy covers US hospital bills in full, and that it covers theft from a car if you’re driving on to Yosemite or the coast. You can find a policy with AXA Travel Insurance.
Interesting facts
- The Golden Gate Bridge opened in 1937, and its colour is called International Orange.
- The cable cars are a National Historic Landmark, the only one in the US that moves.
- Much of the city burned after the earthquake of 1906, and the Painted Ladies are among the Victorian houses that survived.
Time zone
San Francisco runs on Pacific Time: UTC-8 in winter and UTC-7 during daylight saving time (March to November), so usually eight hours behind the UK.
Electricity and adapters
Sockets in the US take Type A and Type B plugs, at 120V and 60Hz.
Map
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All San Francisco guides
22 things to do in San Francisco, with password-only bars, mural alleys and dim sum by the dozen
One day in San Francisco: the itinerary that takes in the bridge at dawn, a cable car ride and oysters by the bay
48 hours in San Francisco is just enough, if you plan it right
24 San Francisco landmarks worth every hill you’ll climb to reach them
Watch on YouTube
See the places before you go
Short films from the places in my guides, so you can see what a destination really looks and feels like before you go.
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