The Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand lit up at night in central Reykjavik
Iceland

Reykjavik travel guide

Soak on the edge of the Atlantic as the sun sets in mid-afternoon, fly over a whole country without leaving the harbour and work up the courage for Iceland’s most notorious snack. Here’s how to plan a few days in the capital, from when to go to where to stay.

Julianna Barnaby
Travel and culture writer

Plenty of people land at Keflavík and head straight for the waterfalls, giving Iceland’s capital a night at most. It deserves more: warehouses turned galleries, a glass concert hall on the waterfront, geothermal pools all over town and a food scene out of all proportion to its size.

I was as guilty as anyone, spending both of my earlier trips on the south coast. Three nights in early December finally put that right: the ritual at Sky Lagoon, a tour of the Omnom chocolate factory, FlyOver Iceland and a Christmas food walk, finishing with dinner at Hnoss in Harpa.

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Start here

Low December sun setting behind the rooftops of the Reykjavik skyline across the water from Grandi harbourThings to do in Reykjavik: 30 ideas, from fermented shark to a lagoon on the edge of the Atlantic
Mist drifting over the geothermal water and dark lava rocks at Sky Lagoon near Reykjavik in winterSky Lagoon, Iceland: from an icy plunge to sunset over the oceanThe Ring Road running east across flat plains towards a long mountain cliff under a blue sky in South Iceland7 day Iceland itinerary: from Sky Lagoon to a lake full of icebergsBest time to visit Iceland: long summer light, autumn aurora or winter snow?

When to go

Reykjavik works all year. Summer brings long light (in June it barely gets dark) and the best whale watching; September to mid-April brings the chance of the Northern Lights; December brings Christmas lights, the Yule Lads and New Year’s Eve fireworks.

On my early December trip, sunrise came after 11am and the sun was dropping behind the rooftops by 2.30pm, so I saved the lagoon for the daylight and the restaurants for the dark. Every season is compared in my guide to the best time to visit Iceland.

Getting there and around

The Flybus takes about 45 minutes from Keflavík and meets every flight; a taxi costs ISK 18,000 to 25,000. The centre is walkable, and Strætó buses cover the rest.

Where to stay

The centre

Postcode 101 puts the bars and museums on your doorstep. Stay at Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, built over the Viking-age ruins of the Settlement Exhibition.

The Old Harbour and Grandi

For the whale-watching boats, Harpa and Grandi. My base was Reykjavik Marina, then still the Icelandair Marina, next to a working dry dock. For a splurge, The Reykjavik EDITION is beside Harpa.

The edge of the city

At Gufunes, 10 minutes from downtown, Reykjavík Domes has glamping domes with wood burners and private hot tubs facing Mount Esja.

Reykjavik Marina Reykjavik Marina Old Harbour and Grandi Check availability
Hotel Reykjavik Centrum Hotel Reykjavik Centrum City centre Check availability
Reykjavík Domes Reykjavík Domes Gufunes Check availability

Know before you go

Top things to do

Take the plunge at Sky Lagoon

The seven-step ritual moves from warm water into an icy pool, a sea-view sauna, a chilly mist, a scrub and a steam room. My nerve in the plunge pool lasted about 10 seconds; the mist was my surprise favourite. Passes from ISK 14,990.

Read next: Sky Lagoon, Iceland: from an icy plunge to sunset over the ocean

Soar over Iceland at FlyOver

This flying-theatre ride in Grandi hangs you, feet dangling, before a giant curved screen for an 8.5-minute swoop over ice caps and fjords. I went in not knowing what to expect and came out a convert. Adult tickets from ISK 5,690.

Spend an afternoon in Grandi

Old fish warehouses now hold restaurants, studios and Marshall House’s galleries. I toured the Omnom chocolate factory; stay for the skyline at sunset.

See Hallgrímskirkja lit up after dark

The 74.5-metre church took 41 years to build. It’s free to go in (the tower lift is ISK 1,500), but come back at night: I saw it floodlit against a black December sky.

Read next: Things to do in Reykjavik: 30 ideas, from fermented shark to a lagoon on the edge of the Atlantic

Join a food walk

The quickest way into the food scene. Mine was a Christmas walk with Wake Up Reykjavík from Harpa, with tales of the Yule Lads between stops and cured Arctic char as the first bite.

Suggested itineraries

A weekend in Reykjavik

2 days

Day 1: Hallgrímskirkja > Laugavegur > Harpa > Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

Day 2: Grandi and FlyOver Iceland > Sky Lagoon at sunset > a food walk

Reykjavik and the Golden Circle

3 days

The weekend, then Þingvellir > Geysir > Gullfoss > Friðheimar

Reykjavik and the south coast

7 days

Two days in the city, then the Golden Circle > Seljalandsfoss > Reynisfjara > Jökulsárlón, as in my 7 day Iceland itinerary.

Hidden Reykjavik

Viðey and the Imagine Peace Tower

A 10-minute ferry from Skarfabakki reaches a quiet island of walking trails and Yoko Ono’s column of light, lit each year from 9 October.

Reykjavík 871±2

Beneath Aðalstræti, a 10th-century hall survives where it was dug up, beside a turf wall dated by ash from around 871.

Dishes and drinks to try

Dishes to try

  • Pylsur: the lamb-heavy hot dog, ordered “eina með öllu”, with everything. Mine came from Bæjarins Beztu on a freezing December night.
  • Hákarl: fermented Greenland shark. I’ve tried it, and the ammonia is the hardest part.
  • Arctic char: on my food walk it came cured, with yuzu and elderflower.
  • Puffin and horse: on traditional menus; I’ve tried both, and puffin is gamey.

Drinks to try

  • Icelandic craft beer: a local brew came round on my food walk.
  • Brennivín: the caraway schnapps poured as a chaser for hákarl.
Must-try bars and restaurants

ROK, Frakkastígur

My first dinner in the city: Icelandic small plates in a black turf-roofed house across the street from Hallgrímskirkja.

Kaffi Grandi, Grandi

The café in the FlyOver Iceland building on Fiskislóð, where I had lunch after the ride.

Smakk Bar, Sky Lagoon

After the ritual, I had dinner here: five taste plates of cheese, cured meats and smoked fish.

Hnoss, Harpa

Where I had dinner on my last night. It’s now a daytime bistro, open later on concert nights.

Costs and budgeting
  • Hotel room: about ISK 32,600 a night on average
  • Hot dog: about ISK 800
  • Mid-range main course: ISK 3,500 to 6,000
  • Pint of beer: ISK 1,200 to 1,600
  • Sky Lagoon: from ISK 14,990

For flights, hotels and everything in between, see is Iceland expensive?

Safety, health and tipping

Safety

Reykjavik is one of the safest capitals you’ll visit. In winter, the bigger hazard is ice underfoot; before a day trip, check SafeTravel for weather and volcano warnings.

Health

No vaccinations are needed. The tap water is excellent, though the hot water smells faintly of sulphur. In an emergency, call 112.

Tipping

Service is built into the bill, so tipping isn’t expected anywhere; leaving something for a great guide is a kind extra.

Practical tips and info

Tips for travelling

  • You won’t need a car in the city: pick one up when you leave.
  • Book Sky Lagoon and popular restaurants ahead in winter.
  • Cards and contactless work everywhere, even at the hot dog stand.

How to see the best for free

Hallgrímskirkja (bar the tower) and Harpa’s foyers are free, and so are the shore path from the Sun Voyager to Höfði House, Tjörnin and the Botanic Garden. On a strong aurora night, try Grótta lighthouse.

Packing

Pack a swimsuit whatever the month. In December I lived in warm layers under a Salomon jacket, plus boots with grip for the ice. For the full kit, season by season, see my Iceland packing list.

Travel insurance

Winter storms can ground flights, so pick a policy that covers delays and cancellations as well as medical care. Compare cover with AXA Travel Insurance.

Suggested guidebooks

Interesting facts

  • Reykjavik is the world’s northernmost capital of a sovereign state.
  • Its name means “smoky bay”, after the steam from its hot springs.
  • Almost every home in the city is heated with geothermal water.

Handy phrases

  • Good day: góðan daginn
  • Thank you: takk fyrir
  • Cheers: skál
  • One with everything (at the hot dog stand): eina með öllu
  • Merry Christmas: gleðileg jól

Time zone

Reykjavik keeps Greenwich Mean Time (UTC+0) all year, so it matches London in winter and is an hour behind it in summer.

Electricity and adapters

Sockets take the two-pin European type C and F plugs, at 230V and 50Hz.

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All Reykjavik guides

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