Mallorca travel guide

Ride the wooden tram to Port de Sóller

The orange and wood tram has run the five kilometres from Sóller’s main square to the sea since 1913, squeezing past the church and out through the orange groves. I rode it down to the port, and on a warm day it’s worth waiting for a seat in an open carriage. My Sóller guide has the rest of the town.

Walk out to the Cap Gros lighthouse

A lane climbs from the beach at Port de Sóller to a lighthouse that has guided boats into the bay since 1859. I kept going along the GR221 beyond it, through pines and wild olives above deep blue water. The lighthouse walk guide has the route and timings.

Drive the Ma-10 over the Tramuntana

The mountain road runs the length of the north-west coast. I drove its highest stretch, past the Gorg Blau reservoir and down into the Sóller valley as the late sun broke through. Follow my Serra de Tramuntana drive stop by stop.

Taste the island’s wine in Binissalem

Binissalem is the heart of Mallorca’s wine country, with the local Manto Negro grape in its reds. I stopped for a tasting at José L. Ferrer, the town’s best-known winery, founded in 1931.

Catch the evening light in Fornalutx

A village of steep stone steps, green shutters and orange terraces below the peaks. I came up in the evening, when the stone turns gold and most of the day trippers have gone.

See La Seu in Palma

Palma’s Gothic cathedral rises straight from the old sea walls, with one of Europe’s tallest naves, a canopy by Gaudí over the altar and a ceramic chapel by Miquel Barceló.

Visit the monastery in Valldemossa

Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838 to 1839 in the Real Cartuja, and you can see their cells and the monks’ old pharmacy. Arrive before 10am, as the car parks fill fast.

Take the boat to Sa Calobra

Boats run from Port de Sóller along a coast of sheer cliffs and sea caves to Sa Calobra, where a path through the rock leads to the gorge of the Torrent de Pareis.

Sóller and the coast in a day

One day

The tram to Port de Sóller, the Cap Gros lighthouse walk, then the town and an evening in Fornalutx

Built from my own time in the valley; my lighthouse walk guide has the route.

The mountain loop

One day

A tasting in Binissalem, Selva and Caimari, Lluc, the Gorg Blau and down into the Sóller valley

The loop I drove; my Serra de Tramuntana drive has every stop.

Four days in Mallorca

Four days

Palma and the vineyards, Valldemossa and Deià, the mountain road, then Sóller and the lighthouse

Built around my own trip from one base near Esporles; follow my 4-day Mallorca itinerary for every day.

Selva

A hilltop village at the foot of the mountains, its stone houses climbing a steep street to the church of Sant Llorenç. I stopped here on the way up to Lluc, and it’s a quiet place to stretch your legs.

The Gorg Blau

A still, blue reservoir below the Puig Major, Mallorca’s highest mountain, right beside the Ma-10. I pulled over in the late afternoon, with pale scree slopes and peaks rising straight out of the water.

The cliff path beyond Cap Gros

Most people turn round at the lighthouse. Carry on along the GR221 past the Refugi de Muleta and the crowds thin out fast, leaving the pines, the limestone outcrops and the sea views.

Dishes to try

Ensaïmada

A spiral of light, sugar-dusted pastry made with pork lard, eaten for breakfast or with coffee all over the island.

Pa amb oli

Bread rubbed with tomato and olive oil, topped with cheese or cured meat: Mallorca’s everyday lunch.

Coca de patata

The soft, sugar-dusted potato bun of Valldemossa, sold from the bakeries on its main street.

Drinks to try

Mallorcan wine

Look for Manto Negro and Callet in the reds and Malvasia and Moll (Prensal Blanc) in the whites, the island’s own grapes.

Herbes

The island’s herb liqueur, flavoured with anise, fennel and other mountain plants, poured sweet or dry after dinner.

José L. Ferrer, Binissalem

The winery behind some of Mallorca’s best-known wines, founded in 1931. I stopped for a tasting here on my way into the mountains; the Visita Moll, three wines with Mallorcan snacks, costs around €21.

Hotels and car hire are the biggest costs, especially in July and August; the walks, viewpoints and villages are free.

• Sóller tram: €10 each way
• Sóller train from Palma: €23 single, €30 return, or €40 return with the tram
• Boat from Port de Sóller to Sa Calobra: returns from around €26
• Palma cathedral: about €10
• Balearic tourist tax: €1 to €4 a night for each guest aged 16 or over from May to October, less out of season, added to your hotel bill

Safety

Mallorca is a safe island. Watch for pickpockets in Palma’s old town and at the busiest viewpoints in summer, take care on the hairpins of the Ma-10 and the road to Sa Calobra, and stay back from crumbling cliff edges on the coast paths.

Health

The tap water is safe but hard and often salty, so most people drink bottled. The sun is strong from May to October, so carry water and cover up on the exposed cliff paths. In an emergency, call 112.

Tipping

Tipping isn’t obligatory. Leave around 10% at sit-down restaurants for good service, and round up in bars and cafés.

Tips for travelling

• Hire a car if you want the mountains and villages: buses link Palma with Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller, but not the inland wine towns or the high viewpoints.
• Book the smallest car you’re comfortable with. The Ma-10 is well surfaced but narrow, with tight hairpins.
• Give cyclists room: Spanish law says at least 1.5 metres when you overtake.
• Start early at Valldemossa, Deià and Sa Calobra, which are far calmer before 10am.
• Stock up on food if you stay in the countryside, as rural stays often have no restaurant.
• Check the Sa Calobra boat the day before, as sailings are cancelled in rough seas.

How to see the best for free

The best of the Tramuntana costs nothing: the coast path beyond Cap Gros, the viewpoints on the Ma-10, the lanes and steps of Fornalutx and the promenade round the bay at Port de Sóller. The Museu de la Mar in Port de Sóller is free to visit, and so are the beaches. Pay for the tram or the boat, and walk the rest.

Packing

Packing for Mallorca? Don’t forget…

• Walking shoes with some grip: for the coast path beyond Cap Gros and the stone steps of the villages. I wear my Tropicfeel Canyons.
• A light jacket: it’s noticeably cooler up in the mountains, 850 metres above the sea.
• Sunscreen and a swimsuit: for the coves and a swim at Port de Sóller.
• A refillable water bottle: there’s little shade or water on the cliff paths.

For the full list, see my Spain packing list.

Travel insurance

UK travellers should carry a GHIC for state healthcare in Spain, but it doesn’t cover private clinics, mountain rescue or getting you home, so take out a full policy too, and check it covers hiking if you plan to walk the GR221. You can find a policy with AXA Travel Insurance.

Interesting facts

• The Sóller tram has run to the port since 1913, a year after the train from Palma opened.
• The Austrian Archduke Ludwig Salvator bought up long stretches of the north-west coast in the 19th century to protect it.
• The poet Robert Graves lived in Deià from 1929 and is buried in the churchyard at the top of the village.

Handy phrases

Mallorquí, the island’s form of Catalan, is spoken alongside Spanish, and a few words go a long way:

• Bon dia: good morning
• Bon vespre: good evening
• Gràcies: thank you
• Per favor: please
• Adéu: goodbye

Time zone

Mallorca runs on Central European Time: UTC+1 in winter and UTC+2 in summer, one hour ahead of the UK.

Electricity and adapters

Sockets take Type C and Type F plugs, at 230V and 50Hz.