Tarragona travel guide

Watch the sea from the amphitheatre’s stone tiers

The amphitheatre was built into the slope just above the beach in the 2nd century AD, so its tiers seem to drop straight into the Mediterranean, and it held around 14,000 spectators for gladiator fights and wild beast hunts. I looked down on it from the clifftop first, then went in, walked round the upper tiers and down to the arena floor. What struck me most was the location: I’ve been to plenty of ancient theatres, but I’d never seen one sitting right on the seafront like this. My guide to Tarragona’s amphitheatre has tickets, hours and the best viewpoints.

Walk the Roman walls on the Passeig Arqueològic

Tarraco’s walls are more than 2,000 years old, the oldest Roman construction still standing outside Italy, and the Passeig Arqueològic follows the best of them through a garden of cypresses, cannons and brick sentry boxes. I walked it in the early afternoon, past the bronze statue of Augustus, and stepped into one of the sentry boxes for a photo. My Passeig Arqueològic guide covers what to look out for along the way.

Walk across the top of the Pont del Diable

The Pont del Diable, or Devil’s Bridge, carried water to Tarraco in the 1st century AD: two tiers of arches, 217 metres long and almost 27 metres high, built without mortar. It was my last stop of the day. I drove out of the city and walked across the top, along the channel that once carried the water, with the pines below on both sides. It’s free and always open. My Pont del Diable guide explains how to get there with or without a car.

Climb Carrer Major to the cathedral

The main street of the old town ends at the cathedral’s great rose window and Gothic doorway. The cathedral stands on the highest point of the city, on the site of a temple to Augustus, and was consecrated in 1331. I walked up Carrer Major and round the outside; inside, the cloister has 295 carved capitals, including one of rats carrying a cat to its funeral.

Start at the Balcó del Mediterrani

The Rambla Nova runs straight to the sea and ends at a clifftop railing above the water, where local people walk down to “tocar ferro”, touch the iron, before turning back. It’s where I started my day, with the view over Platja del Miracle, the port and the curve of the amphitheatre below.

Go under the Roman circus

At the end of the 1st century AD, Tarraco built a chariot-racing circus more than 300 metres long. The later city was built on top of it, so today you walk through its vaulted passages under the streets, then climb the Praetorium tower for a view over the old town and the sea.

If you’d like the stories behind the stones, this Roman heritage walking tour of Tarragona takes in the amphitheatre, the walls and the old town with a local guide.

For all 13 of my favourite things to do, read my guide to the best things to do in Tarragona.

Tarragona in a day

One day

This is the day I had: the Balcó del Mediterrani first thing, then down the Rambla Nova into the old town for lunch, up Carrer Major to the cathedral, round the walls on the Passeig Arqueològic, down through Plaça del Fòrum to the amphitheatre, and out to the Pont del Diable in the late afternoon. Without a car, swap the aqueduct for the Roman circus and the Praetorium tower.

A day trip from Barcelona

One day

Trains from Barcelona Sants take about 1 hour 10 minutes, with around 30 a day, and Tarragona station sits right below the Balcó del Mediterrani. Buy the combined ticket at your first Roman site, and remember the sites are closed on Mondays. If you’d rather not plan it yourself, this half-day Tarragona tour from Barcelona includes transport and a guide.

Tarragona and Priorat

Two days

Spend a day on the Roman sites, then drive inland to the vineyards of Priorat, about an hour away, for a day of tastings around Gratallops. My Priorat wine day trip guide has the wineries I’d book.

Plaça dels Sedassos

A small square in the Part Alta where the whole end wall is a trompe l’oeil mural, painted in 1995, with balconies, figures and the artist himself at work. Most people walking between the cathedral and the forum miss it.

El Serrallo

The old fishermen’s quarter by the port, about 15 minutes’ walk from the Rambla Nova, where the fleet still lands its catch and the waterfront is lined with seafood restaurants.

The Torre dels Escipions

A Roman funerary tower about 6 kilometres east of the city, beside the old coast road, and one of the lesser-visited parts of the World Heritage Site. It’s free to see from the outside.

Dishes to try

Seafood rice

Rice cooked with the catch of the day, dry or creamy, is what the coast here does best. Mine at El Llagut came crowded with crab, langoustines and mussels.

Romesco

The region’s great sauce, made with dried ñora peppers, roasted tomatoes, garlic, almonds and hazelnuts, served with grilled fish and vegetables.

Calçots

From winter into spring, the long sweet onions of nearby Valls are charred over a fire and dipped in romesco at a calçotada, a feast that’s as messy as it is fun.

Drinks to try

Priorat and Montsant reds

Two of Spain’s most prized wine regions are an hour inland, and their powerful reds are on every wine list in town. Read my Priorat wine day trip guide if you want to taste at source.

Vermouth

Nearby Reus is one of the capitals of Catalan vermouth, and a glass on a terrace before lunch is a local ritual.

El Llagut

A small, nautical-themed restaurant on Carrer de Natzaret, by Plaça del Rei in the old town, known for its rice. I had lunch here: a pot of rice crowded with crab, langoustines and mussels, a fish stew and a plate of sardines. Expect to pay around €45 a head without drinks, and book ahead, as it’s a small room.

El Serrallo

The seafood restaurants along the fishermen’s quarter by the port are the obvious place for a long fish lunch or dinner by the boats.

Mercat Central

The modernista market on Plaça Corsini, just off the Rambla Nova, has stalls of fish, cured meats and cheese, and bars where you can eat at the counter. Go in the morning, when it’s busiest.

The Roman sites are cheap, and the best views are free.

• Amphitheatre, Roman circus and Praetorium, Passeig Arqueològic, colonial forum or Casa Canals: €5 each (€2.50 reduced)
• Combined ticket for all five: €15 (€7.50 reduced)
• Tarragona Cathedral: €12.50 (€8.50 reduced), with a free audio guide
• Pont del Diable: free
• Lunch at El Llagut: around €45 a head without drinks

Safety

Tarragona is a safe city. Watch for pickpockets in busy spots and on trains, don’t leave bags unattended on the beach, and take care on the open top of the aqueduct.

Health

The tap water is safe to drink, though many people prefer bottled. Summer is hot and the Roman sites are exposed, so carry water, wear a hat and keep out of the midday sun. In an emergency, call 112.

Tipping

Tipping isn’t obligatory. Leave around 10% at sit-down restaurants for good service, and round up in bars and cafés.

Tips for travelling

• The Roman sites are closed on Mondays. From April to late October they open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 8.45pm and Sunday 9am to 2.30pm, closing earlier in winter.
• Buy the €15 combined ticket at your first Roman site if you plan to see four or more; under-12s go free.
• See the walls and the amphitheatre in the morning or late afternoon in summer, as there’s little shade.
• The top of the Pont del Diable is narrow and open, so take it slowly and wear proper shoes.
• Eat on Catalan time: lunch from about 2pm and dinner rarely before 9pm.

How to see the best for free

A lot of Roman Tarragona costs nothing. The Pont del Diable is free and always open, the arches of Plaça del Fòrum stand in the open street, and from the Balcó del Mediterrani and the park above the amphitheatre you can see the whole arena without a ticket. Walk up Carrer Major to the outside of the cathedral, find the castellers monument halfway down the Rambla Nova, and end the day on Platja del Miracle.

Packing

Packing for Tarragona? Don’t forget…

• Comfortable walking shoes: for the cobbles of the Part Alta, the gravel of the walls walk and the uneven top of the aqueduct. I wear my Tropicfeel Canyons.
• Sunscreen and a hat: the amphitheatre and the walls have very little shade.
• A refillable water bottle: there’s nowhere to buy a drink at the Pont del Diable.
• A swimsuit: Platja del Miracle is right below the old town.

For the full list, see my Spain packing list.

Travel insurance

UK travellers should carry a GHIC for state healthcare in Spain, but it doesn’t cover private clinics, lost luggage or getting you home, so take out a full policy too. You can find a policy with AXA Travel Insurance.

Interesting facts

• Tarraco was the capital of Hispania Citerior, later Hispania Tarraconensis, the largest province of Roman Spain, and Augustus stayed here over the winter of 26 to 25 BC.
• The city walls, begun in the 2nd century BC, are the oldest Roman construction still standing outside Italy.
• The Pont del Diable was built without mortar, its stone blocks held in place by their own weight.
• The castells, Catalonia’s human towers, are on UNESCO’s list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and Tarragona is one of their homes.
• The bronze Augustus on the walls walk is a copy of the Augustus of Prima Porta, given to the city by Italy in 1934.

Handy phrases

Catalan is spoken alongside Spanish, and signs are often in Catalan first:

• Bon dia: good morning
• Bona tarda: good afternoon
• Si us plau: please
• Moltes gràcies: thank you very much
• Adéu: goodbye

Time zone

Tarragona runs on Central European Time: UTC+1 in winter and UTC+2 in summer, one hour ahead of the UK.

Electricity and adapters

Sockets take Type C and Type F plugs, at 230V and 50Hz.