Sunrise balloon flights over the Rio Grande, a cable car up to snow at 10,378 feet and thousands of petroglyphs on the edge of the city. Plan your trip to Albuquerque, from Old Town and green chile to where to stay, when to go and the best day trips.
Most people know Albuquerque for two things: its October Balloon Fiesta and Breaking Bad. There’s far more to it. The city sits at over 5,000 feet beside the Rio Grande, with the Sandias walling off the east and a volcanic escarpment covered in ancient rock art to the west, and its Pueblo, Spanish and Mexican roots show up everywhere, from the adobe lanes of Old Town to the chile on every menu.
I spent some time here in February, when it was sunny but literally zero degrees some mornings. A hotel clerk dismissed the city as boring, but the haters are wrong. I floated over the Rio Grande at sunrise with Rainbow Ryders (a solid 10 out of 10), rode the tram up a snowy Sandia Peak for sunset, played spot the petroglyph in Rinconada Canyon, my favourite walk in the city, and fell for Albuquerque over a giant margarita at Sawmill Market. Give it at least two days.
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September to November is the sweet spot, with warm days, clear skies and the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which runs from 2 to 10 October 2027. Hotels fill up months ahead for Fiesta week and prices climb, so book early. Spring brings blustery winds, and summers are hot, with monsoon storms on July and August afternoons.
Winter is the quiet season. I came in February, with bright, cold days, sub-zero nights, snow on the mountain and Old Town almost to myself. Balloons fly all year when the weather allows, so you don’t need to wait for October to go up.
Albuquerque International Sunport is about 15 minutes’ drive from downtown, with nonstop flights from many US cities. Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, Greyhound buses and the Rail Runner to Santa Fe all leave from the Alvarado Transportation Center downtown.
Old Town, Sawmill Market and downtown are walkable, and the free ART buses run along Central Avenue. For everything else, you’ll want a car: the tram is about 20 minutes’ drive from downtown, and Santa Fe about an hour north on I-25.
The best base for a first visit, with the plaza, the museums, the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and Sawmill Market all within walking distance. Stay at Hotel Chaco, my favourite hotel in the city.
Bars, breweries and the KiMo Theatre, and commuter trains to Santa Fe from the Alvarado Transportation Center. Stay at Hotel Andaluz, which Conrad Hilton opened in 1939.
Lavender fields, cottonwoods and a rural feel about 15 minutes’ drive from Old Town. Stay at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm, home to Campo, my other recommendation and the place to splurge.
The city’s famous “box” winds make it ideal for ballooning. On my Rainbow Ryders flight, the city was right there below the basket, the only sound the occasional roar of the burner. The basket touched down in a car park while locals waved, and the flight ended with a champagne toast. Flights run all year, weather permitting.
About 15 minutes from the desert to a 10,378-foot summit. I went up in February, tried a short walk in the snow at the top (I wasn’t quite prepared) and stayed for a freezing but epic sunset. A round trip is $35 for adults.
My favourite walk in Albuquerque: a free 2.2-mile trail past about 300 carvings pecked into black basalt. Bring binoculars and allow about an hour and a half.
Adobe lanes around a leafy plaza, laid out in 1706, with San Felipe de Neri Church on its north side. It was very, very quiet when I visited in February, and all the more charming for it.
Run by New Mexico’s 19 Pueblos themselves, with dances in the courtyard at weekends. Entry is $12 for adults.
A food hall in an old lumber warehouse near Old Town, with 28 vendors under one roof. This is where I fell in love with the city.
One day
Sunrise balloon flight, then Old Town, Sawmill Market and the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, then sunset on Sandia Peak
My one-day itinerary packs the highlights into a single sunrise-to-sunset day.
Three days
The one-day route, then Rinconada Canyon and the West Side, then a day trip to Santa Fe, Acoma Pueblo or Madrid
Time for the petroglyphs, a slower meal at Campo and one of the best day trips.
A week
Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos, then south to White Sands
See the New Mexico road trip itinerary.
The quietest of the petroglyph areas: around 400 carvings along an easy 1.5-mile walk at the foot of the escarpment.
A tiny adobe shrine tucked down a lane just off Old Town Plaza.
Cottonwoods burned in a 2003 bosque fire, carved into sculptures beside the trailhead on the west bank of the river.
Rio Grande Valley cooking made with produce from the inn’s own organic farm, and the best lamb birria I’ve had. Dinner daily from 5pm and brunch Thursday to Sunday; reservations strongly advised.
The city’s food hall, near Old Town: Notorious P.O.K.E was my favourite, Flora pours the giant margaritas and Paxton’s Taproom does local beer. Open daily from 8am.
Opened in 2016 as the state’s first brewery owned by Native women, and brewing with Southwestern ingredients. Food trucks and pop-ups regularly park up outside.
Fantastic coffee in a courtyard just off Old Town Plaza; try the Blackbird, espresso with dark chocolate and red chile.
Albuquerque is good value by US city standards, and some of its best sights are free.
At the petroglyph trailheads, lock your car and keep valuables out of sight, carry water and watch for rattlesnakes in the warmer months. San Felipe de Neri is still an active parish, so keep quiet during Mass.
The city sits over 5,000 feet up and the top of the tram at 10,378 feet, so drink plenty of water, take it slowly at first and wear sunscreen even in winter. Dress for snow on Sandia Peak from late autumn to spring.
Tip 18% to 22% at sit-down restaurants, US$1 to US$2 a drink at bars and 15% to 20% for guides and balloon crews.
Petroglyph National Monument is free, and Rinconada Canyon, the best of its trails, costs nothing to walk. Exploring Old Town’s plaza and its 18th-century church costs nothing, and the city’s murals, more than 150 of them, are mapped on the Muros ABQ website.
The paved Paseo del Bosque Trail follows the Rio Grande for 16 miles through the cottonwoods, and city buses are free, the ART buses on Central Avenue included.
Packing for Albuquerque? Don’t forget…
Medical care in the US is expensive, so take out a policy with generous medical cover for the USA, and check it includes hot air balloon flights and hiking at altitude. Compare policies with AXA Travel Insurance.
Mountain Time, with daylight saving: UTC-7 in winter and UTC-6 in summer, seven hours behind the UK for most of the year.
Type A and B plugs, at 120V and 60Hz.
Sandia Peak Tramway: from desert to a 10,378-foot summit in 15 minutes
Petroglyph National Monument: which canyon to choose and how to spot the carvings
Albuquerque hot air balloon ride: drifting over the Rio Grande at sunrise
One day in Albuquerque: a sunrise-to-sunset itinerary, from hot air balloons to Old Town
Where to stay in Albuquerque: the best areas, from adobe Old Town to Route 66 neon
21 epic things to do in Albuquerque: sunrise balloons, petroglyphs and green chile
14 brilliant day trips from Albuquerque: pueblos, gypsum dunes and steam trains

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