Santa Fe travel guide

Get lost in Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return

A former bowling alley now hides a Victorian house full of portals and secret passages. I went in through a washing machine and out through a fridge, and found it “kind of bonkers”. Timed tickets from $33; my Meow Wolf guide has the rest.

Go gallery hopping on Canyon Road

More than 100 galleries and studios fill half a mile of adobe. The Longworth Gallery and Kay Contemporary were my favourites, but go into as many as you have time to.

Shop the portal at the Palace of the Governors

Built in 1610 on the Plaza, the palace is home to the New Mexico History Museum ($12). Outside, Native American artists sell jewellery and pottery they made themselves.

See Southwestern art at the New Mexico Museum of Art

A 1917 Pueblo Revival building off the Plaza holds more than 20,000 works, and the $12 ticket also covers the Vladem Contemporary in the Railyard. Don’t miss the teeny sculpture garden at the side.

Book a soak at Ten Thousand Waves

A Japanese-style spa in the pines, ten minutes up Hyde Park Road. The sauna was “hotter than hell”, there was snow all around outside and my 80-minute CBD massage was blissful: five out of five. Reservations only, with private tubs from $89 a person.

Puzzle over the staircase at Loretto Chapel

The chapel’s spiral staircase turns twice with no central support, and legend says a mysterious carpenter built it, then vanished without being paid. Admission is a small fee.

Hike the Dale Ball Trails

About 25 miles of foothill trails start a few minutes from downtown. I loved hiking them in the snow on my first afternoon; give them an hour or a whole day. More in my New Mexico hikes guide.

A weekend in Santa Fe

Two days

Tia Sophia’s, the Museum of Art, the Palace of the Governors, Loretto Chapel, Canyon Road and Museum Hill, then Meow Wolf, the Baca Street district and sunset at the Cross of the Martyrs

My weekend itinerary plans the meals around the sights.

Three days in Santa Fe

Three days

The weekend, then a morning on the Dale Ball Trails and an afternoon at Ten Thousand Waves

Santa Fe and northern New Mexico

Five to seven days

Three days in Santa Fe, a day trip to Tent Rocks, a night in Taos via Ojo Caliente and the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, then Albuquerque

Build it from my day trips from Santa Fe and New Mexico road trip.

The art inside the Roundhouse

The State Capitol hides nearly 600 works by New Mexico artists over four floors. Wander in free on weekdays, 7am to 6pm.

Sunset at the Cross of the Martyrs

A short brick path climbs from Paseo de Peralta to a white cross above downtown, with views over the rooftops to the mountains.

Glass blowing in the Baca Street district

Make your own piece at Liquid Light Glass, south-west of the Railyard. Book ahead.

Dishes to try

• A breakfast burrito, “Christmas” style: eggs, potatoes and cheese under red and green chile. Mine at Tia Sophia’s cost about $14.
• A chicken tostada: the one at Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill is, in my words, “a mad tostada”.
• Blue corn doughnuts: at Whoo’s Donuts, go for the blueberry and blue corn, with a green chile apple fritter for a kick.
• Green chile stew: a New Mexican classic on most local menus.

Drinks to try

• Jamaica agua fresca: iced hibiscus, my drink of choice with lunch at Bumble Bee’s.
• Local spirits: Santa Fe Spirits’ Original Santa Fe Whiskey and Apple Brandy, at its Read Street tasting room.
• Drinking chocolate: Kakawa Chocolate House makes chocolate elixirs from historic recipes, some spiced with chile.

Tia Sophia’s, near the Plaza

The most epic breakfast of my trip: a burrito ordered “Christmas”. An absolute must. Monday to Saturday, 7am to 2pm, no reservations.

Radish & Rye, near the Railyard

Seasonal, farm-inspired cooking and a serious bourbon list. My rib-eye “might be the best steak I’ve ever had”. Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday; book.

Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill, Jefferson Street

A cheerful counter-serve spot I found completely off the cuff. Order, take a card and your food comes to you. I cannot recommend it enough.

Zacatlán, Aztec Street

Chef Eduardo Rodriguez cooks the flavours of his native Zacatecas with Southwestern ingredients, and the desserts are beautiful. Book, and check the day’s hours.

Palacio, East Palace Avenue

A relaxed café near the Plaza for a chile-smothered breakfast before the museums, from 7.30am.

Whoo’s Donuts, Cerrillos Road

Blue corn doughnuts and other New Mexican flavours from 7am daily, plus sourdough pizza from Thursday to Saturday evenings.

Santa Fe Spirits, Read Street

The distillery’s tasting room near the Railyard, where I had a cocktail one evening. Wednesday to Sunday, from 4pm on weekdays and noon at weekends.

Hotels near the Plaza are pricey, especially in summer, but many of the best sights cost little or nothing.

• Meow Wolf: from $33 for a timed ticket
• New Mexico Museum of Art or History Museum: $12 ($7 for New Mexico residents)
• New Mexico CulturePass: $30 for one visit to each state museum within 12 months
• Ten Thousand Waves: private tubs $89 a person for 90 minutes; massages from $229
• Breakfast burrito at Tia Sophia’s: about $14

Safety

Santa Fe is generally safe for visitors; take the usual care at night. Check road conditions before heading up Hyde Park Road or into the mountains after snow, and keep off exposed trails in summer thunderstorms.

Health

No special vaccinations are needed. The altitude can bring headaches and breathlessness at first, so keep sipping water and limit alcohol on night one. The sun is fierce on the shadeless foothill trails in summer: carry water and suncream.

Tipping

Tip 18% to 22% at sit-down restaurants, US$1 to US$2 a drink at bars and 15% to 20% for tour guides and drivers.

Tips for travelling

• The altitude catches people out: take your first day slowly and keep sipping water.
• Book ahead for weekend slots at Meow Wolf, anything at Ten Thousand Waves and dinner at Radish & Rye and Zacatlán.
• You’ll be asked “red or green?” about almost every dish. Say “Christmas” to get both chiles.
• From November to April, the state museums close on Mondays; Tia Sophia’s is always closed on Sundays.
• UK and other Visa Waiver visitors need an approved ESTA (US$40.27) before flying.

How to see the best for free

Plenty of Santa Fe costs nothing. Stroll the Plaza, browse the Native artists’ work outside the Palace of the Governors, gallery hop on Canyon Road and in the Railyard, and see the Roundhouse’s art on a weekday. MoCNA is free on Fridays, and the Nuevo Mexicano Heritage Arts Museum on Museum Hill has been free since 2024.

Outdoors, the Dale Ball Trails and the Cross of the Martyrs are free, the Santa Fe Pick-Up shuttle costs nothing, and the Saturday farmers’ market fills the Railyard.

Packing

Packing for Santa Fe? Don’t forget…

• Warm layers: winters are cold and snowy, and nights are chilly all year at this altitude.
• A water bottle: the dry mountain air dehydrates you fast.
• Comfortable trainers: downtown is best explored on foot.
• A daypack: for water and layers on the Dale Ball Trails.
• Suncream: the sun is strong at 7,000 feet, even in February.

Travel insurance

US medical bills are notoriously high, so make sure your policy has generous medical cover for the USA, plus winter sports cover if you plan to ski at Ski Santa Fe or Taos. Compare policies with AXA Travel Insurance.

Suggested guidebooks

• Moon New Mexico
• Lonely Planet Southwest USA

Interesting facts

• Santa Fe is the oldest state capital in the US and, at about 7,000 feet, the highest.
• No public building put up by European settlers in the US has been in use longer than the Palace of the Governors, from 1610.
• The Roundhouse is the country’s only round state capitol, shaped like the Zia sun symbol when seen from the air.

Time zone

Mountain Time: UTC-7, or UTC-6 from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November. Usually seven hours behind the UK. Unlike most of Arizona, New Mexico changes its clocks.

Electricity and adapters

Type A and B plugs, at 120V and 60Hz.