Georgia in winter is two trips in one: a few days of khinkali, amber wine and candlelit supras in Tbilisi, then a week of big-sky skiing high in the Caucasus. This is the exact one-week route I followed, day by day, with where to eat, where to stay and what to book.
I travelled around Georgia in late January and early February, on a hosted creator trip with Traverse and Georgia Tourism, with ski passes provided by MTA (Mountain Trails Agency). It was my first time skiing since Trentino, and my first time in Georgia in the depths of winter, and the combination of city and mountains worked brilliantly. Here’s the itinerary, with everything you need to plan your own week.
Georgia in winter itinerary at a glance
- Day 1: Tbilisi: lunch, the Wine Museum, the Bridge of Peace and a supra with polyphonic singing.
- Day 2: the Georgian Military Road to Gudauri.
- Days 3 to 5: skiing in Gudauri, with lessons, mountain lunches and après.
- Day 6: the Kobi cable car and a final dinner in Gudauri.
- Day 7: back to Tbilisi via Ananuri.
- Day 8: fly home.
Before you go
- Flights: British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Tbilisi. I took the overnight flight, which lands early the next morning, so you get a full first day in the city.
- When to go: the ski season in Gudauri runs from late December to April. The 2026/27 season opens on 20 December 2026.
- Money: the currency is the Georgian lari (GEL). Cards work in most restaurants and hotels, but carry cash for markets, taxis and mountain cafés.
- Weather: Tbilisi is usually just above freezing in January and February, while Gudauri is far colder, so pack for both.
Day 1: Tbilisi
Land, drop your bags and give yourself a morning to recover. I stayed at the Radisson Blu Iveria on Rose Revolution Square, a tall glass tower with sweeping views over the city and the river, and I woke up to sunrise over Tbilisi from my window. Have a look at the Radisson Blu Iveria or browse hotels in Tbilisi.
Lunch at Satchashnike
For lunch, head to Satchashnike on Merab Kostava Street, a Tbilisi restaurant first opened in 1969 and recently revived. It mixes Georgian classics with a grill menu, and it’s a good place for your first plate of khinkali, Georgia’s famous soup dumplings. My lunch was a long, leisurely spread of salads with pomegranate, cured meats, seafood and dessert.
The Tbilisi Wine Museum
In the afternoon, walk down to the Wine Museum on Sioni Street in the Old Town. It’s set in brick-vaulted cellars, with old clay jugs on the walls, and tells the story of Georgian winemaking, from the qvevri (the egg-shaped clay vessels buried underground to ferment the wine) to the deep amber wines the country is famous for. The visit ends with a candlelit tasting, where my host poured a run of Georgian wines and talked through how each one was made.
Do
If you’d like to go deeper into Georgian wine, wine tastings and tours in Tbilisi can be booked in advance.
The Bridge of Peace at dusk
As the light goes, walk across the Bridge of Peace, the curving glass-and-steel footbridge over the Mtkvari River, with the Old Town and Narikala Fortress on one side and Rike Park on the other. It’s at its best around dusk, when the lights come on.
Dinner at Kartuli Sakhli
End your first day with a Georgian supra (feast) at Kartuli Sakhli: a candlelit hall hung with flowers, plate after plate of Georgian food, a male choir singing Georgian polyphonic songs and a dancer in red performing in front of the stage. Georgian polyphonic singing is on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage, and hearing it live over dinner is a wonderful introduction to the country.
My guide to things to do in Tbilisi has more ideas if you have extra time in the city.
Day 2: the Georgian Military Road to Gudauri
Leave Tbilisi in the morning for the drive north to Gudauri, about 120km and around two hours on the Georgian Military Road. The road climbs past the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir and the Ananuri fortress before winding up into the mountains.
Once you arrive, check in, pick up your ski hire and have a long lunch. I stayed at the Hotel Marco Polo, a big ski-in, ski-out hotel with a pool, spa and bowling alley, which made for an easy first evening. Read my full Hotel Marco Polo Gudauri review.
Top Tip
Pick up your skis, boots and helmet on the afternoon you arrive, so you’re ready to go first thing the next morning. Bring your own goggles.
Days 3 to 5: skiing in Gudauri
Spend the next three days on the slopes. If you’re rusty, like I was, book lessons for the first morning or two: there isn’t a lot in the way of green runs in Gudauri, so a few lessons make the longer blues far less daunting. My guide to skiing in Gudauri covers the slopes, the 2026/27 lift pass prices, lessons and hire in detail.
- Mornings: lessons or skiing while the snow is fresh.
- Lunch: on the mountain or back at your hotel. Georgian lunches of pkhali, lobio and bread are exactly what you need.
- Afternoons: a few more runs, then après. Mix Bar is right on the slopes, and Drunk Cherry is the après bar in New Gudauri, where I warmed up with a glass of mulled wine.
- Evenings: your hotel’s pool or spa, or a Georgian dinner.
The weather can change fast. I had brilliant blue skies on some days and a full-on snowstorm on another, so keep a flexible plan and save the cable car for a clear day.
Day 6: the Kobi cable car and a final dinner
On your last full day, ride the Kobi cable car, a chain of red gondolas that carries you up over the Kobi Pass and down into the valley on the Kazbegi side of the mountains. It takes up to an hour each way, with views over wide, empty valleys the whole way. Read my guide to the Kobi to Gudauri cable car for prices and tips.
In the evening, book a farewell dinner at Ati Ambavi, a boutique hotel in Gudauri with a candlelit dining room and a tasting menu of modern Georgian dishes. It’s a lovely way to end a week in the mountains.
Day 7: back to Tbilisi via Ananuri
Drive back down the Georgian Military Road in the morning and stop for lunch near the Ananuri fortress, where the castle walls and churches look out over the Zhinvali reservoir. I had lunch at Guda, including a classic Georgian salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and herbs.
Back in Tbilisi, spend your last afternoon in the Old Town. The domed sulphur baths of Abanotubani are the classic way to soak away a week of skiing, and the streets around them are lovely for a final wander.
Day 8: fly home
Most flights back to Europe leave early in the morning, so stay somewhere central in Tbilisi and book your airport transfer the night before.
Tips for Georgia in winter
- Allow time on the mountain road: heavy snow can slow the drive to Gudauri, and the Jvari Pass beyond it closes when the avalanche risk is high. Check georoad.ge before you travel.
- Pack for two climates: a warm coat for Tbilisi, and full ski gear for Gudauri.
- Book dinners in advance: especially the supra at Kartuli Sakhli, which is popular with groups.
- Get a local SIM or eSIM: handy for maps, taxis and checking the lifts.
- Check your insurance: make sure it covers winter sports.
Map
Read next
- Skiing in Gudauri, Georgia’s big-sky ski resort in the Caucasus
- Things to do in Tbilisi
- The best holiday destinations in February
- The best places to visit in winter
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